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Took contour to get estimate for having an exhaust leak fixed. I was told the leak is not that bad but a ball joint is. The mechanic demonstrated this by showing that he could move the wheel while the car was on the lift. Is this enough to determine that a ball joint is bad?

Its the right front lower ball joint, if that matters.



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there is only one ball joint per side

what way did the wheel move, if he grabbed it on the top and bottom and pushed in and out it couls be the ball joint, if it was back and forth like in the direction you would steer that would be a tie rod end


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Yes, if wheel can be moved(wobbled) while tire is in the air, the ball joint is bad. Depending on year of car and control arm configuration, it could probably be cheaper to replace complete lower control arm $55 at BAT (2 bolt, vertical bushing design which includes NEW balljoint) as opposed to $40 for balljoint alone.
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Its a '96. Whats "BAT"?

I was quoted price for part of $73 for just the ball joint...of course that is the mechanic's marked up price.

In answer the the question in the other response, he did grab the top and bottom.


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There are two checks that should be made for ball joints:

1) Lateral movement - push-pull on tire at the 6 and 12 positions

2) Vertical movement - use a prybar to see if the stud moves vertically inside the joint when upward pressure is applied.

You can have one or the other condition or both and it indicates a bad ball joint.

He has a 96 so he has 4-bolt LCAs. Cant use the BAT 2-bolt veersion. The 4-bolt LCAs are a Ford-only item are expensive, and a PITA to replace.

Steve


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Originally posted by projectSHO89:
The 4-bolt LCAs are a Ford-only item are expensive, and a PITA to replace.

Steve




nope, contact 96blackse as he can get Ford OEM control arms at a decent price

but you are better off replacing the arm rather then just the ball joint as chances are the bushing are shot


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Compare 4-bolt LCA pricing to 2-bolt LCA pricing from anyone you want, it doesn't matter.

They're more than twice as much. They are only available as OEM with no aftermarket competition.

Already been down that road.

Steve



98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car 89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles 94 SHO ATX - 190K 1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K. ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
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Called Ford dealer and they say would have to replace the control arm they can not do just ball joint. This is $470 parts and labor.

The independent guy who told me ball joint needs to be replaced gave a price of $210 parts and labor. This is just for the ball joint. Is he mistaken that he can replace just the ball joint? Or is there perhaps an after-market part that allows replacement of just ball joint?



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There are aftermarket ball joints available to do the ball joint only. It would be wise to inspect the lower control arm bushings before doing the ball joint only or you will be doing the entire lower control arm including another new ball joint in a few months.

Just how loose is it? A very slight bit of looseness is not a problem. Years ago, ball joints were heavily oversold because the factory joints had a very small amount of play but were still in factory specs. I had someone try to sell me new ball joints on a six month old car back then.


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Originally posted by jeffyscott:
Called Ford dealer and they say would have to replace the control arm they can not do just ball joint. This is $470 parts and labor.







Ford now makes a ball joint for the Contour. About $30 from Bill Jenkins. Just drill out the 3 rivets and bolt up to the control arm. Even comes with a zirc fitting so it can be greased where the ones that come on the control arms are not. That Ford dealer sucks arse! Take them the number (F5RZ-3V078-B) and shove it up there lying arse.


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