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Joined: Mar 2003
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only for cable shift!!! maybe i'll switch from rod to cable this summer


"Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness sobered, but STUPID lasts forever."-Aristophanes. --93 pgt,headers,intake,borla=14.9 1/4mile
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Thanks Rick,

I feel the same way, worried about letting the shop guys do the work. Todras was right, the $250 quote was remove only with another $250 to replace. Cheapest quote so far after calling about 10 places is $400 total.

I had a brief glance at a Chilton manual earlier today and it almost seemed like pulling the motor/tranny together could be easier than just the tranny itself. Lots of wire disconnections to be made but that is the kind of "work" I like Need to look at a Haynes manual...

I have considered the clutch thing as well. I am pretty easy on my cars and have gotten 150k+ miles out of every clutch I've ever used so I was thinking about take my chances with the original. Several folks have said they are at 200k and counting on the original clutch. *Edit* Just checked and at $120 it would be silly not to replace the clutch disc. *Edit*

I am trying to do this on the cheap since the car is worth squat and I'm PO'd that the tranny needs replaced so soon in the first place

Last edited by JTod; 03/02/06 12:44 AM.

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its a toss up between out the top with motor attached and out the bottom without the motor attached.

out the bottom you gotta support the motor, and deal with the rack and pinion but out the top you gotta deal with hoses and wires!

i did my clutch out the bottom and the rack was a PITA


Russell Oval Port 3L Nearly Done MTX75 w/ Homebrew Zetec FD and Torsen Complete
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Originally posted by Russell-3L:

i did my clutch out the bottom and the rack was a PITA




Is that because some of the steering bolts are hard to get to? The manual mentioned something about a special Ford tool...

I will have another car to drive while monkeying with the Contour so I guess I'll try to do the job myself.


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I really had no problems with the rack. I spent 1/2 the time trying to work with the turbo piping. It certainly made things a huuuuuge pita. All you have to do with the rack is undo one bolt that can be easily accessed with multiple extensions. From there it disconnects easily from the subframe. If I were you I would just pull it from the fender.


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Originally posted by BiggsvT28:
If I were you I would just pull it from the fender.




Are you talking about the one bolt or the rack? Sorry to be such a pest but I like to hear from people who have been there and done that...


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Originally posted by todras:
Terry doesn't have a site. He has his own sectoin at fordcontor.org or just email him.




http://hainesmotorsports.net/Index.html

It's never been updated.

The site that todras was trying to type was http://www.fordcontour.org/


Whirling dervish of FFOG.
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