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OK, so I got a pair of rear disc knuckles out of the junk yard and here's what I want to do.
1) Replace the bearings and hubs.(stazi, you out there)
2) powdercoat knuckle flat black
3) replace the rubber bushings with shore94 (Josh, I think
you could help with 2 & 3)
4) reinstall with Eibach wheel spacer kit and TCE brake kit
and the calipers I just rebuilt.
I took the spindle/caliper assemblies over to the auto hobby shop on post and did some preliminary disassembly.
Here are my questions.
How do I get the hub assembly off the knuckle (I searched so keep it to yourself) if you have an harbor press?
Which of the above should be done first?
Thanks all
Ohsigmachi '96 GL MTX Zetec
--I don't won't to hurt you, but it's still on my list of things to do.--
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CEG\'er
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CRAAAPPPP! I guess I'll be learning how to do shore 94 and powder coat myself.
Ohsigmachi '96 GL MTX Zetec
--I don't won't to hurt you, but it's still on my list of things to do.--
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CEG\'er
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How do I get the hub assembly off the knuckle (I searched so keep it to yourself) if you have an harbor press?
Ohsigmachi '96 GL MTX Zetec
--I don't won't to hurt you, but it's still on my list of things to do.--
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Hard-core CEG'er
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You will have to give the casting compound some sort of lip over the spindle. Without it there the new bushing is able to move in directions it shouldnt.
· Jon Miconi
· Coming Soon!
· 01 Cougar
· 98 V70R
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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You can get poly bushings for the knucles trailing arm connection, for the rear forward controle arm the bushing is stiff enough to really not benifit much from poly. I was intending to do poly for the forward conrole arm untill i saw how good the stock bushing is in that location.
99 SE V6\5spd - 156 HP\157 TQ 15.166-90.84
Totaled 02/12/06
99 SVT # 1571 - 175 HP\153 TQ 14.999-91.88
Born 3/24/99 Reborn 3/18/06
Pietenpol Racing Technologies project vehicle
90 Festiva L 5spd, Blue(not for long), 103k
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CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
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On the rr, your do not need a press to get the hub out of the knuckle. Simply loosen the locking retainer (that will be fun with the knuckle out of the car) and the hub will slide out from the back side. Easiest way is to apply the brakes to hold the rotor/hub assembly and loosen the nut. Then remove the complete knuckle assembly from the car and complete the disassembly process. Alternatively, use a very large vise.
I found it's a good idea to also replace the brake splash shield at the same time as they're cheap but can only be removed/installed while the hub/knuckle assembly is apart.
I doubt you will like poly bushings in the knuckle-I hated mine as they introduced plenty of harshness into the rr suspension. Unlike the front subframe, there is no rubber isolating bushing where the sub attaches to the chassis. Ford kinda' got around this by using (too much) rubber in each individual suspension arm. Lotsa' rubber = lotsa' deflection.
If you wish to have this work done for you (including the powder paint), PM me.
Redcoat Raceworks. Performance parts and custom fabricating for Contours, Mystiques and Cougars. Specializing in chassis and suspension parts. Custom end links, control arms, strut tower bars, engine torque braces, etc.
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Is the nut you're talking about behind the silver cover on the front: 
Ohsigmachi '96 GL MTX Zetec
--I don't won't to hurt you, but it's still on my list of things to do.--
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anybody? I even took a picture!!
Ohsigmachi '96 GL MTX Zetec
--I don't won't to hurt you, but it's still on my list of things to do.--
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Are the bearings bad? i.e. is there any perceived play in them when you wiggle side-toside, top-to-bottom? If not then I wouldn't touch them. To take tem off you will need to remove the hub-cap and there will be a nut, maybe a cotter pin too, holding the hub on.
I'm not sure about the maker of the rear hub/bearings, but I would have to see one, off the car to tell who makes it and if it is a serviceable unit or if it is a throw-away (you buy a new hub-bearing unit and and retorque the nut).
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Originally posted by Stazi:
Are the bearings bad? i.e. is there any perceived play in them when you wiggle side-toside, top-to-bottom? If not then I wouldn't touch them. To take tem off you will need to remove the hub-cap and there will be a nut, maybe a cotter pin too, holding the hub on.
I'm not sure about the maker of the rear hub/bearings, but I would have to see one, off the car to tell who makes it and if it is a serviceable unit or if it is a throw-away (you buy a new hub-bearing unit and and retorque the nut).
There is no perceived problem with the bearing, but these are junk yard parts and I take no chances. I want the knuckles powder coated because I'm meticulous, and I would presume that the bearings should be removed for that process.
I don't want to sound like an jerk (I hate saying that because I'm not going to be sucessful), but I really am not looking for opinions/advice I just need resources to get the work I want done...done.
Ohsigmachi '96 GL MTX Zetec
--I don't won't to hurt you, but it's still on my list of things to do.--
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