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Last night I finished installing a pair Bill Jenkins' value struts in my '99 SE Sport. I haven't driven it yet as I finished late last night but if you'd like to know what they're like I can give a report on that tomorrow. I would like to thank Stazi for his excellent procedure on strut replacement, there's no way I could have completed this with just the factory CD instructions. Now here's the LCA question:  With the two bolt design the only problem in removal would be the one bolt (left bolt right side) under the transmission. Has anyone ever loosened that bolt and then just cut off the head to remove it? And then install a replacement upside down? It seems that it would work and shouldn't be a big deal to have the new bolt inverted. If an upside down bolt would be OK then the two bolt LCA's would be a snap to replace. Has it been done? Bob Minor '99 V-6 SE Sport
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Yup I've done that. Normally when I pull engines out I just reverse it. I think you might need to shorten the bolt slightly so it doesn't hit the transmission case.
1999 3.0L Cougar: 220fwhp and 200tq
2003 VW Passat W8 with 4 Motion AWD
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Originally posted by Blackcoog:
Yup I've done that. Normally when I pull engines out I just reverse it. I think you might need to shorten the bolt slightly so it doesn't hit the transmission case.
Me too. Install the new bolt upside down with the OLD nut, count threads that are exposed above the OLD nut (keep your new nylock nut virgin for the final install). Remove bolt and grind it down the appropriate number of threads & re-install with your NEW nylock nut.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Originally posted by TourDeForce:
Originally posted by Blackcoog:
Yup I've done that. Normally when I pull engines out I just reverse it. I think you might need to shorten the bolt slightly so it doesn't hit the transmission case.
Me too. Install the new bolt upside down with the OLD nut, count threads that are exposed above the OLD nut (keep your new nylock nut virgin for the final install). Remove bolt and grind it down the appropriate number of threads & re-install with your NEW nylock nut.
I will need to change my LCAs to, what size bolts is needed to install new LCA ? (if I install the bolts upsidedown).
SVT 99 #526 of 2760
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You could put a jack with a board under the transmission, unbolt that tranny mount and lift the assembly up for installation. Should the bolt come loose in the "upside down scenario, it falls out and causes extremely bad things to happen. If the nut comes loose, the bolt is still holding things together. But you know what you paid for this advice.
Whirling dervish of FFOG.
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If lifting the transmission works (which I don't doubt) why doesn't the Ford CD tell you to do it that way. Every procedure I've seen gets into dropping the subframe which seems ridiculous for the a two bolt LCA.
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Originally posted by bobmin:
If lifting the transmission works (which I don't doubt) why doesn't the Ford CD tell you to do it that way. Every procedure I've seen gets into dropping the subframe which seems ridiculous for the a two bolt LCA.
I tried lifting the tranny/engine first. I had to pull the airbox, unbolt at least two mounts (the front one had to completely come out because of the design), and I still didn't have enough play to get the bolt out - although it was CLOSE. Got upset at burning so much time going through all of this that I just grabbed my grinder & hacked the bish off!!
LCA for the Mystique is this weekend & I think I'll lower the subframe as Bill Jenkins sent me the WRONG FREAKIN' BOLTS!!!
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Did you try that on a manual or auto?
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well I have done the 4-bolt control arms two dofferent ways. Once we moved the engine around (on a zetec,mtx) and the second time we dropped the subframe (on a duratec,mtx) and I will say dropping the subframe is the best way to go, more so for the 2 bolt arms.
with out dropping the subframe you have to fight to load up the bushings to get the arm into the subframe while working around the hub. The 2-bolt arms have to be installed straight into the subframe because of the design. This means if you don't drop the subframe you need to pull the strut and get the hub out of the way.
To drop the subframe all you need to do is get it down about 4 inches. All you need to disconnect is the steering wheel (done from inside th cabin), the two roll restrictors and the 4 subframe bolts. When taking the sub frame bolts out use plenty of PB blaster and work the bolt in and out. If the bolt tightens up do not force it. you need to run the bolt back in and use more PB blaster as the thread has become full of junk. On my fathers 95 he did this and the nuts didn't come free giving us that issue, just take your time and don't rush. Also you will not be able to drop the sub frame al the way out because of the power steering lines and rack, just support the engine/trans with a jack and use another jack or jackstands to support the subframe.
It was really easy and took about the same amoung of time, taking our time as it did to force the arms in with the subframe still bolted up.
- 95 Mystique LS - Zetec/5spd
- 99 Contour SeVT Sport - Duratec/5spd
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Originally posted by bobmin:
Did you try that on a manual or auto?
I have had all automatics. Girls in the house, you know.
Originally posted by BrApple:
well I have done the 4-bolt control arms two dofferent ways. Once we moved the engine around (on a zetec,mtx) and the second time we dropped the subframe (on a duratec,mtx) and I will say dropping the subframe is the best way to go, more so for the 2 bolt arms.
with out dropping the subframe you have to fight to load up the bushings to get the arm into the subframe while working around the hub. The 2-bolt arms have to be installed straight into the subframe because of the design. This means if you don't drop the subframe you need to pull the strut and get the hub out of the way.
To drop the subframe all you need to do is get it down about 4 inches. All you need to disconnect is the steering wheel (done from inside th cabin), the two roll restrictors and the 4 subframe bolts. When taking the sub frame bolts out use plenty of PB blaster and work the bolt in and out. If the bolt tightens up do not force it. you need to run the bolt back in and use more PB blaster as the thread has become full of junk. On my fathers 95 he did this and the nuts didn't come free giving us that issue, just take your time and don't rush. Also you will not be able to drop the sub frame al the way out because of the power steering lines and rack, just support the engine/trans with a jack and use another jack or jackstands to support the subframe.
It was really easy and took about the same amoung of time, taking our time as it did to force the arms in with the subframe still bolted up.
Thanks for the info Brapple! That'll cut R&R time & is a good base for a plan of attack...
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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