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Posted about this months ago, but it cleared itself up. Now the problem is back, but a little worse.
After constant throttle at highway speeds for a few minutes, initial braking is nonexistant. Extreemly hard pedal, no stopping ability at all. Let go of the pedal and push again, car stops fine. I suspected it was a vacuum problem, so I checked all hoses for leaks, and checked the little check valve going into the brake booster. All fine.
Now last weekend I almost became intimate with the rear bumper of a Dodge Ram, because the car refused to stop AT ALL. I thought I was going to break the pedal I was stepping on it so hard, and at the last minute, the car stopped. New fluid, bled properly, and new factory pads rotors and tires were installed a few months ago. I had the problem before the brake change. Stop and go driving is fine, no problems.
Any kind of hard stop I can hear the ABS working regardless of pavement condition, which is not common for me to hear.
Im pretty much convinced its a bad brake booster. How hard is it to remove/replace? I would appreciate hearing any other ideas as well.
-Ken V.
1998.5 SE Praire Tan Zetec ATX
psycho_bass@hotmail.com
Roush springs Roush rear sway bar BAT struts 17" Millie Miglia HT3 and a ton of subtle asthetic mods
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Originally posted by CRZYDRVR:
...
Im pretty much convinced its a bad brake booster. How hard is it to remove/replace? I would appreciate hearing any other ideas as well.
I would have suggested checking vacuum lines from manifold and flushing brake fluid but you have already done that.
Pretty tough to remove and replace, according to 1996 Ford CD.
Brake Booster, Power
Removal
1. Disconnect battery ground cable. Exhaust vacuum by applying the brakes several times.
2. Disconnect fluid level indicator connector.
3. Remove vacuum hose from power brake booster.
4. Disconnect the main 32-pin connector by disengaging the locking tang and pulling the connector halves apart.
5. Relieve fuel system pressure.
6. Disconnect and reposition fuel system lines as necessary to remove brake booster.
7. Remove air cleaner assembly.
8. On vehicles equipped with air conditioning, evacuate A/C system, disconnect and remove A/C lines as necessary to remove brake booster.
9. Remove brake master cylinder.
10. Remove four brake booster mounting nuts.
11. While assistant guides power brake booster forward, remove brake booster push rod retainer from brake booster push rod.
12. Remove power brake booster.
Installation
1. While assistant positions power brake booster, guide brake booster push rod into brake booster push rod retainer.
2. Place power brake booster studs into holes in mounting bracket and install four mounting nuts. Tighten nuts to 40 N-m (29 lb-ft).
3. Install vacuum hose into power brake booster.
4. If removed, reconnect A/C refrigerant lines and bracketry.
5. If removed, install fuel system lines.
6. Reconnect 32-pin main wiring connector and secure.
7. Install air cleaner assembly.
8. Install brake master cylinder.
9. Install mass air flow sensor and air cleaner cover.
10. Note: When the battery has been disconnected or reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the powertrain control module (PCM) relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 18 km (10 miles) or more to relearn the strategy.
Connect battery ground cable.
11. Bleed brake system.
12. If discharged, charge A/C system.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Thanks for the how to.
Wow, that looks like a PITA. Especially playing with the A/C system. Looks like Im gonna try anything else I can before I replace the booster.
-Ken V.
1998.5 SE Praire Tan Zetec ATX
psycho_bass@hotmail.com
Roush springs Roush rear sway bar BAT struts 17" Millie Miglia HT3 and a ton of subtle asthetic mods
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The line to the booster is a piece of junk. When mine broke I made a new one instead of buying one from Ford. It has a one way valve in it so check it too.
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Im pretty sure thats the one I checked, and it was good. Im at a loss right now, and Im NOT looking foward to replacing that booster.
Im thinking about mounting a vacuum canister like whats used on a engine with too much cam to keep the power brakes. I think if its hooked up right, it can keep vacuum up enough to have use of my brakes and not worry about it anymore.
If anyone can post or send me a vacuum diagram, I would appreciate it.
Last edited by CRZYDRVR; 02/09/06 01:00 AM.
-Ken V.
1998.5 SE Praire Tan Zetec ATX
psycho_bass@hotmail.com
Roush springs Roush rear sway bar BAT struts 17" Millie Miglia HT3 and a ton of subtle asthetic mods
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The most common cause of auto accidents is the vehicle not stopping before it hits the other car. As much as I hate to pay a mechanic, this may be one of those times to bite the bullet. Even if you pay to have the problem diagnoised than correct it yourself. If you do not correct the problem maybe you could list me as a beneficiary on your life insurance policy.
Good Luck Dan
96 SE 2.5 V-6
89 Silverado 4 x 4 with snow plow no rust
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Originally posted by Dan the rug man:
As much as I hate to pay a mechanic, this may be one of those times to bite the bullet. Even if you pay to have the problem diagnoised than correct it yourself.
The problem is, its not repeatable enough to take to a mechanic and rely on him finding the problem. But my Dad is a mechanic, so he is going to help me out this weekend 
First thing he wants to do is hook up a vacuum gauge again and drive around to see whats going on. I will definately keep this thread updated in case anyone else has this problem in the future.
Tony- I will show him the diagram and see if thats what he needs. Thanks a lot
-Ken V.
1998.5 SE Praire Tan Zetec ATX
psycho_bass@hotmail.com
Roush springs Roush rear sway bar BAT struts 17" Millie Miglia HT3 and a ton of subtle asthetic mods
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Where is the canister purge solinoid valve located? Im hoping its bad, and causing the low vacuum. Probably easier than replacing the booster. I can check that this weekend also. 
-Ken V.
1998.5 SE Praire Tan Zetec ATX
psycho_bass@hotmail.com
Roush springs Roush rear sway bar BAT struts 17" Millie Miglia HT3 and a ton of subtle asthetic mods
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"Where is the canister purge solinoid valve located?" Clipped to the firewall. From Autozone, 1998-99 MODELS On 2.0L engine equipped vehicles: Remove the air cleaner outlet tube. Remove the air intake resonator. Disconnect the electrical harness from the valve. Remove the valve retaining nuts. Label and disconnect the vacuum and vapor hoses from the valve. Remove the valve. Installation is the reverse of removal. http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/c9/ee/0900823d801bc9ee.jsp
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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