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#1495627 02/04/06 06:46 AM
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Hi folks,

My sister's '95 4-cylinder Contour (90k miles, auto transmission) recently died while going down the road. We took it into the shop, and had an interesting experience. Our initial estimate said that the timing belt needed to be replaced, and that they needed to do some machining on the valves and head. All told, with labor, we were looking at $2000.

I did my research, and from a number of sources, it seems that the DOHC Zetec is non-interference. The shop maintains otherwise, and quotes a tech at the Ford dealership as saying that the engine is an interference design. At any rate, they gave me the option to fix just the timing belt, with the assertion that the engine would run roughly if they were right that the engine is an interference design.

Well, we had the timing belt replaced, at $250, which seemed like a reasonable price. Then they discovered that the tensioner had snapped, which caused the failure, and that they needed a kit that cost something like $300. All told, they wanted ~$450. So we went with that anyway, still under the impression that it would get things going.

Then today, they called to tell us that with the timing belt and tensioner fixed, it wouldn't start. The engine isn't running poorly, as the guy told me it might; it plain doesn't run at all. We went in to talk with them, and it was "interesting". The people working there claimed all sorts of communications problems, but the bottom line is that nobody mentioned that the timing belt wouldn't fix the problem.

So apparently, we have now some $1500 left of repairs to do; they say we need to get the head and valves machined to the tune of $900, with $600 additional labor. The owner of the shop offered me a $100 discount on labor, spread across both the timing belt replacement and the head work. Are these figures reasonable?

When I was in the shop, they showed me the parts; the tensioner was definitely gone, but the belt looked fine. I'm not going to complain about the timing belt design, since I'm more interested in getting the car running, and it was due for a replacement anyway..

This shop, I would say, has been historically decent; their prices are typically a bit high, but they're reliable. But this time, I need guidance. Is it possible that the engine design is, in fact, an interference type? Are we being fleeced, price-wise? I was wondering if it were possible to get my head and valves machined by myself, but I don't know what sort of cost I would be expecting. Would it be possible to buy a new one, and install it myself? How about complete engine replacement?

Any of your thoughts would really be appreciated.

#1495628 02/04/06 07:48 AM
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If i were you this is what i would do. I would pull the head off the car myself and take it into a machine shop directly. I had to install 6 new valves after a timing chain accident (we won't talk about that). The valves were around $30 a peice (don't quote me there) and the work to replace them was very reasonable. When you pull valves out apprently its a good idea to replace the seals to, so all together i think it was $250 for the machine shop to do the work. With the valves bent on my car it just plain wouldn't start either. And really when you think about it, that is what really should be the problem. Bent valves.

In my case the valves were just bent and didn't do much damage to the actual head or pistons. Hopefully this is the case for you. I couldn't see how they can do all that much damage but you won't know untill you check. And hell yes you can do it yourself. If you can read instructions and have some pretty basic tools i think its worth it to give it a shot. Whats the worst your going to do,assuming your capable of being patient and not breaking anything? Its already not running and the alternative is to pay somebody to take it apart anyways. I would just find a mechanic that wouldn't' mind putting it back together for you if you didn't feel comfortable with it.

Like i said "if i were you" its your call man. Feel free to PM with any questions or help.


98.5 Black contour // A.K.A. Frankenstein 3L Oval port swap W P&P // SVT UIM, LIM, & Cams Torsen LSD // Dual Friction // KKM // Poly Mounts // ?Mystery Mod? // Actually Running! 205 hp @ 6500RPM 180 tq @ 4250RPM
#1495629 02/04/06 02:22 PM
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the 2.0 zetech is a non interferance motor--you can turn the cams over and over with the piston all the way up with no contact. I'd take it somewhere for another opinion

#1495630 02/04/06 07:42 PM
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The Zetec is a non-interference engine. If you have bent valves, it's not from the timing belt breaking.
I would also take the head off myself and take it to a reputible machine shop.
If you are not confident enough to do the work. This job will be at least $1500 to fix.


95 Contour GL. Bought new. BAT Sway Bars/Pioneer CD/Koni Rear Struts/Mobil Fluids. Looking for 15" alloy rims-PM me. 180,500km's so far.
#1495631 02/04/06 09:42 PM
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If you get someone to repair the head for you ask to see the bent valves. I always ask to see the parts replaced before the job is started. Its sad when you cant trust many people anymore.

#1495632 02/04/06 09:59 PM
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Very good point NOVA.


95 Contour GL. Bought new. BAT Sway Bars/Pioneer CD/Koni Rear Struts/Mobil Fluids. Looking for 15" alloy rims-PM me. 180,500km's so far.
#1495633 02/05/06 01:57 AM
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All I can say is that if you do plan to remove the head yourself, keep one thing in mind. When loosening the head bolts, make sure you give them a pretty good rip on the wrench. Otherwise, if you try and baby them off, you can break them off in the block! Not a good thing.


I'll put holes in him!!
#1495634 02/19/06 11:05 AM
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Well, I'm a bit late on the update here, but it turns out that the car DIDN'T have any valve damage. The shop pulled the head, didn't see any damage, decided to consult their books, and discovered it was non-interference, like I was telling them. Turns out it was a dirty fuel injector keeping the engine from going..

To the shop's credit, they didn't just fix the injector, keeping our money. It's been an interesting trip, but we came to what I would call a fair deal. They basically waived all the labor, and gave us the new head gasket and antifreeze. They botched some aspects of the job, but they made good, so I'll be going back.

Moral of the story is that the Zetec is not an interference design.

Thanks for your support, all.

#1495635 02/19/06 02:30 PM
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Chalk one up for CEG!

Thanks for the update, and since the shop was so willing to hammer you for a HUGE bill, I think you should re-consider doing business there.



Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
#1495636 02/19/06 04:51 PM
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You have to be really careful who works on your car. I have heard so many HORROR stories it's just sick.
Even a few friends of mine have been burned for thousands $$.
There are many trust worthy people on this Forum. It is a credit to the people who do their research here!


95 Contour GL. Bought new. BAT Sway Bars/Pioneer CD/Koni Rear Struts/Mobil Fluids. Looking for 15" alloy rims-PM me. 180,500km's so far.
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