Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Occaisional stalling after warm, UIM/LIM gasket

Hello all!!! This is my first post so I will try to make it a good one.

First I want to say that there is TONS of information in this forum! Thanks to all, for your information (posts) have helped greatly. But, unfortunately not enough yet...

My fiance's car is a 95 Mistake, 2.5,I own an Acura TL (bone stock) if I was gonna mod a car for speed it wouldn't be anything less than an 8cyl. I digressed.

The first problem: It would stall out occaisionally after it was warm. Sometimes after 6 hours of driving and sometimes after it was sitting for a couple hours and it would happen 30 minutes after you start driving it again.

Mechanic recommended changing the UIM/LIM gaskets. So I read the how-to on the forum here and did it. I'm not sure about one of the injectors, it wasn't seated all the way down like the others in the fuel rail. Anyway, replaced the gaskets for the fuel rail to LIM (I had to drive almost 100 miles away to get this part, NOBODY had it) with all the other in recommendation after tons of B12 and lots of white smoke...

Second problem now (not sure if the first is fixed): It runs rough now from cold start on and gradually gets worse to the point where I have to keep the RPM's up above 3k to accelerate without much hesitation (its still there just not as pronounced). It almost feels like a misfire but no engine codes indicating that. The only engine codes I got before and after the UIM/LIM gasket replacement were (ODBI 136 and 176).

I am almost lost for things to do to it. I'm in the process now of changing the spark plugs, just for $hits and giggles. Wires, plugs, fuel filter were changed approx. 2 years ago. I cleaned the IAC out thoroughly with the B12 and 2+2. Let me just say that there was so much black crap coming out of all of that stuff that I couldn't believe it. Only 71000 miles on her 95.

Ladies and Gents, I do have to apologize for the long post but I wanted to make sure I got most of the pertinent information across to you, so I would get good feedback.

I appreciate all your help!

-Dan

___________________________________________________________
Previous toy - 97 30th Aniv. Z28 Camaro (Stock 1/4 was 13.9)

These cars have feelings! Calling it a Mistake hurts...
My experiance with cars crooking after running for some time leads me to the fuel pump most of the time. As for the miss, 95s will not give you a code on misfires. I had a bad coil pack on tour #2 and the EEC didn't know it. I heard the miss in the exhaust so I started to pull wires one by one until I discovered one of the coils (there are 3 in the pack) was dead on one side only. Holding the wire next the opposite tower and receiving its spark made the miss go away.

Hello all,

I seam to be having the same problems. When cold, I have to rev the engine once to keep the car running, after started the car runs fine. If I don�t rev it up the car will just stall after starting. It will start right back up.

But some times after it�s warmed up the car will stall sometimes, about once a day on average. And only at idle after driving on the freeway or at a stop light after full warm up. Also the car will start back up right away after this happens.

The car is pulling between 25 to 30 on the Vac. Gage.

Plugs and wires where changed last year, Fuel Pump and filter where replaced last year, and the alternator was replaced last year.

The car has 101,300 miles on it

The car is not miss fireing.

Car details.

2000 ford contour SE V6 Durtec.
KN Air filter,
Disabled EGR system.


Zintac

Zintac, most probably IAC valve.
IAC cleaning
from Ray's UIM/LIM how to in Duratec Maintenance how to.

"Replacing the IAC gasket:
(From IAC faq)
Over time, the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve becomes sticky due to buildup from the EGR and PCV systems. It can stick partially open such that idle quality is adversely affected, and engine RPM's will not drop below 1500. For a while, blipping the throttle will restore normal idle, but this only works for so long.

The fix is to remove the IAC valve by unbolting the two 8mm bolts that hold it on and disconnected the wiring plug. If you are careful enough, replacement of the gasket will not be necessary. The gasket costs less than US $1.00, so it is no tragedy if you destroy it. Once the valve is off, spray it out with some carb/intake cleaner and make sure any gunky residue is gone. Reattach, and you are done. It is a lot cheaper than a new IAC, which runs around US $70. Note: Ford claims the IAC cannot be cleaned, but this is not true in my experience." Ray.

4th picture for location of IAC valve.
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=v6maint&Number=931756&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=186&fpart=1

If you can't reach the bottom bolt, you may have to remove the EVR solenoid (black round thing to the left of the IAC valve when you are looking at it from the front) as it gives more clearance to get to the bottom nut.

After doing all my work to rid my engine of vacuum leaks I still had lean 1 & 2 only on brisk acceleration. The idle was jumping around too at times and I had hesitation when real cold. I tested the TPS and caught it in the act of changing resistance. Changed it out and the problem went away. I checked the old one again and it was OK.

Well, I replaced the PCV valve and hoses they were very cracked. That was a glaring leak. The car started running better. I also replaced the O2 sensor in front and back
(by accident) dont ask!...

Also replaced the plugs, they were kinda nasty.

The car is still stumbling occaisionally on acceleration and under a load only. It idles ok. other than I will probably need to replace the IAC in the next couple of months and perform the TH fix.

Please help! I like working on cars and all, but this is really getting on my last nerve! Can i also say that my hands are all F$%$^d up from getting at the O2 sensor below the coil pack. Wont ever replace that again. (Note: Big hands dont belong in small places, DUH!)

Thanks