Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Audio Found out I have a factory amp. Now what?

I was having a hard time getting the right wiring harness for my new head unit because the factory CD player had an "odd" connector that I couldn't get a match to. Ended up going to Best Buy after trying 2 WalMarts, and they had a wiring harness for the "Premium" Contour audio that had the right connectors. I didn't think that I had anything premium, and the speaker covers on the doors don't say Premium or anything. Heck, I think that the factory stuff sounds pretty bad, thus the upgrade, but that is a different story...

So sure enough, in the Best Buy parking lot, I drop the glove box, and there is the factory amp.

So I want to bi-pass the factory amp when I put in the new head unit, right? That's what I've been reading, but why not keep it? If I need to bi-pass it, I'll need to run to get an amp bi-pass cable.

Just let me know why I want to bi-pass it, and I'm game. I just don't want to do something that I don't need to if I don't have to. Besides, I want to get my new head unit installed, and not run across town to Best Buy again.

becuase running a High level signal into a amp sucks! Plus the stock amp is horrible!

I think I am well qualified to answer this as I just purchased my Mystique about 4 weeks ago and just installed my new headunit last week. From what I read on CEG, the premium amp is not very good, while it may be better than the amps that come in your typical OEM HU it doesn't compare to the amps in a decent aftermarket headunit. I also learned from Crutchfield that there may be another issue with keeping the amp, namely that the voltage levels coming out of your new aftmkt HU my not properly match with the amp degrading the sound. Crutch sells an adaptor, but why bother with that when you can bypass the OEM amp altogether. It is not that hard to do and there is a good thread on here somewhere which tells how to do it. To make life easier though you will need a bypass harness, the one I used was made by American International and was part number FWH-5.

I will say after hearing the before and after sound I am SOOO GLAD I bypassed the factory amp, I will be pulling it next week that is where the Satelite radio will go, unless I can find an nice 4 channel amp small enough to mount in place of the factory amp though that might not be possible.

Hope that helps

Line noise. You will amplify all the noise produced from one amp into the next amp. It isn't a clean way to do it, not to mention that most amps have low level inputs. You would need something to attenuate the output of the factory amp, or buy an amp with high level inputs. Usually only low-end amplifiers have high level inputs, they don't put them on high end stuff because they aren't very clean anyway.

The actual speaker wires come out of the factory amp and go straigh to the door speakers. If you are using he factory deck you want to take the line level outputs (small four wire square plug IIRC) and feed them into your amp and then run the amp direct to your speakers.

Thanks everyone. I had seen (in the FAQ) that it should be bi-passed, and now I have a good understanding of why...

Now I just need to decide if I want to just get a bi-pass harness or do some cutting... I'll probably spend the bucks on the harness and keep it cleanly installed.

Thanks again...

Got the wiring harness soldered to the head unit's harness last night. Put on some heat shrink tubing for a nice clean look while I was at it. Ordered the amp bypass as well. Now the problem is, my car is in the shop today getting some work done on the engine. Bummer.

Viss 1, do you have a recomendation on a good 2Ch amp that would fit, trying to keep it under $150 if I can. Thanks for checking on the size for me

OK. So I finally got around to hooking up the new head unit tonight, and now I have another question.

I didn't have the amp "on" wire connected because Pioneer puts a plug on the end of that wire, and I was hoping to just bypass the factory amp anyway, but without the amp signal wire connected, I got no sound. When my amp bypass cable comes, and I truly bypass the factory amp, will I need to have the amp "on" signal wire connected? I just like to keep things nice, and don't want to cut off that connector if I am just a couple of days away from not needing that wire connected up anyway. Then I have the plug for if I ever add an aftermarket amp down the road.

I know that it is minor, and I can always add a new plug later, but I just want to make sure that I do it right.

Otherwise, the new head unit made a HUGE improvement in sound, even with the factory speakers AND factory amp still in place. I can't wait until the new speakers come tomorrow, and I can bypass the factory amp (when the cable comes next week)...

For now, I took out the new head unit until I get the wiring 100%. I also think that one of my wires isn't soldered well or something as the left rear speaker sounds "weak" compared to the others. I'll play around with that.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts on the amp "on" signal wire.

Nick

I could be wrong, but I don't think you need to use the amp on signal once you bypass the factory amp. You would need it if you add an afmkt amp.