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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 34
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OP
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98 SVT. Im pretty sure that i have a alternator problem, but i need a second opinon. I was driving home (about 35 mph) and suddenly the the tach said 0 rpm, the e-brake and ABS light came on. The engine stayed on for another 30 seconds, then died. The alternator light never came on. Tryed to crank but only got Click..click.click. About 5min later, power was back and i was able to start the car. Only to have it do the same thing when i was pulling up into my garage.
When i finally got my car into my garage i was able to test the battery/alternator. After i got the battery charged i checked the voltage, 12.6v at the battery (A brand new die hard gold). Started the car and checked voltage again. The voltage started at 12.4 and dropped all the way to 9v, and thats when the car died.
But why would i have power after waiting 5min later without the charger? The battery climbed back up to 12.2v after the car died. Good old DIE hard batterys. But that is a alternator problem right? I dont want to waste $170
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4
Newbie
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Newbie
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4 |
sounds like it...the voltage reading should be between 14 and 14.5 i believe...another test you could do is when the car is running, disconnect the negative cable and if it dies then its the alternator
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 34
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OP
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Yea it died right away, Thanks! Ok i know what im doing tomarrow
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,100
Addicted CEG\'er
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Addicted CEG\'er
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,100 |
NEVER EVER EVER REMOVE THE BATTERY CABLE WHILE RUNNING!
Though it will check.. it is INCREDIBLY DANGEROUS (FATAL!) and can RUIN your car's entire electrical system.
Do you have ANY IDEA the voltage and amperage running through there when running?
NEVER do that again!
PLEASE!
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 34
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OMFG, thats right you can only do that on old 60's cars without all the computer controlled stuff. (smacks head on wall) Its ok shes still running. Wheww.
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,395
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Nov 2003
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Hmm, Alternators are a [censored] to remove on those arnt they? Should see if the wiring is ok... Start with easy stuff first before ripping out the alternator...
Former owner of a 1995 Ford Contour GL w/ 2.0L ATX
Proud owner of a 2005 Ford Taurus SE 3.0L V6 Vulcan 
--Looking for Commodore stuff (Drives, Units, Amiga, games, etc)If anyone has any of this laying around and wants it gone, lemme know --
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,345
Addicted CEG\'er
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Addicted CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2005
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Originally posted by TaurusKev:
Hmm, Alternators are a [censored] to remove on those arnt they? Should see if the wiring is ok... Start with easy stuff first before ripping out the alternator...
Charge battery well. Then test.
Battery test. Engine off, lights on for one minute. Then voltage should be 12 to 12.5.
Alternator test. Engine running, voltage across battery terminals should be 14 to 14.5.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 34
New CEG\'er
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The voltage at the battery when the car is running is 12v dropping to 9v and the engine dies. Thanks for those numbers. Im going to pull it out today...
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 34
New CEG\'er
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Sorry for the double post but this is important. The positive alternator cable (the one behind the intake manifold and under the coil pack), the little plastic connector to the positive cable on the battery has melted off. I grabed the connector and it fell apart in my hand. I think the alternator is still good. Im going to try to connect a 4Gauge cable to each end and cover it with electrical tape or heat shrink tube. Has anyone ever had this problem? If anyone has a pic on what the connector should look like, that would help me alot.
Last edited by CSVT98driver; 01/12/06 03:46 PM.
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