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bobunit Offline OP
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Hello,
I have been using this site for awhile and it has been a lifesaver. Ok, now ill try to keep my long story short. Christmas day, Contour dead, girlfriend very sad. I change plugs & wires and it starts right up. Upon driving it, I notice it stumbles bad on accelation (really becomes pronounced after 35mph). Checked for vacuum leaks and tested fuel pressure. Looked ok. Took it to an automotive shop and 3 codes pulled from the computer (Sorry , but I don't have the codes in front of me). One indicated the MAF was faulty. They recommended replacing the MAF as well as a fuel injection service. They couldn't get a MAF right away so I took it home and bought one (funny how they couldn't get one, but I could). Changed it, reset the computer and still running the same, well except now it surges at idle. I'm ready to take it back to the Shop to have them do the fuel service, but i thought i would get some opinions first. Thanks for your time.

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Welcome. . Get it scanned again and post the exact codes. In addition, what engine, tranny, mileage?

Surging could also be caused by a dirty throttle body but we won't really know without the codes.


"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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bobunit Offline OP
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Oops I forgot! 1995 Contour GL, 2.0L Zetec, manual trasmission, 117K. I will get the codes when I get home.

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Here are the following codes: 113(Intake air temp sensor), 117(Coolant Temp Sensor), 157(Mass air flow sensor). MAF has been replaced with reman unit. Intake air temp sensor resistance checked within specs. With new MAF installed, it now surges at idle and will not idle when cold unless accelerator is pressed. Thanks again.

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"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Hello again,
Ok, so took it to the shop to have the fuel injection cleaned including a new fule filter. They also fixed the connector to the MAF (apparently one of em was bent or broke). Told me it seemed to take care of the problem. Well, driving down the road low and behold it exhibits the same syptoms as before... Sluggish on acceleration to stumbling/cutting out. Very noticeable around 30mph or faster. As far as I'm concerned the problem is not fixed and yes it will be going back.
So what exactly is an IAC valve and where would it be located on a Zetec 2.0? They also mentioned the water pump is making noise as well as the serpinetine belt tensioner showing signs of wear. Would the water pump have anything to do with this? Seems strange, but I am at a loss.

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A faulty Intake Air Temperature sensor or dirty throttle body could cause the 35 mph issue. In addition, put a bottle of HEET or fuel stablizer in the tank just in case there is moisture in the gas tank.

Surging at idle could be IAC or dirty throttle body problem.

It appears you need to access the IAC from the bottom of the car.

IAC cleaning
from Ray's UIM/LIM how to in Duratec Maintenance how to.

"Replacing the IAC gasket:
(From IAC faq)
Over time, the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve becomes sticky due to buildup from the EGR and PCV systems. It can stick partially open such that idle quality is adversely affected, and engine RPM's will not drop below 1500. For a while, blipping the throttle will restore normal idle, but this only works for so long.

The fix is to remove the IAC valve by unbolting the two 8mm bolts that hold it on and disconnected the wiring plug. If you are careful enough, replacement of the gasket will not be necessary. The gasket costs less than US $1.00, so it is no tragedy if you destroy it. Once the valve is off, spray it out with some carb/intake cleaner and make sure any gunky residue is gone. Reattach, and you are done. It is a lot cheaper than a new IAC, which runs around US $70. Note: Ford claims the IAC cannot be cleaned, but this is not true in my experience." Ray.

Location of the IAC for the Zetec.

"It's on the back side of the intake plenum under the throttle body area." DESIGN.

I looked at the Haynes manual and the Zetec IAC valve is located next to the starter. Below are the steps from the 1996 Ford CD to remove it .

Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve


Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable

2. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube and resonator assembly.
3. Disconnect the main chassis vacuum line.

4. Disconnect the ignition coil and radio interference capacitor wiring.

5. Remove the fuel line bracket retaining bolt.

6. On 2.0L engine equipped vehicles, raise vehicle on hoist.
7.
7. Disconnect the engine control sensor wiring or fuel charging wiring (depending upon application) from the idle air control valve (IAC valve) at the idle air control valve connector.

8. On 2.5L engine equipped vehicles, remove retainer for engine control sensor wiring from the upper retaining stud bolt.

9. Remove the two idle air control valve retaining bolts or stud bolt (depending upon application).

10. Remove the idle air control valve and idle air control valve gasket.

Installation

1. Note: If scraping is necessary, be careful not to damage idle air control valve or intake manifold idle air control valve gasket surfaces or drop material into intake manifold.

Clean idle air control valve gasket mating surfaces.

2. To install idle air control valve, reverse Removal procedure. Tighten the fuel line bracket bolt to 8-12 N-m (71-106 lb-in).

3. On 2.5L engine equipped vehicles, tighten the retaining bolt and stud bolt to 8-12

4. On 2.0L engine equipped vehicles, tighten the idle air control valve retaining bolts to 8-11 N-m (71-97 lb-in).

Edit. TB cleaning
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=trouble&Number=920243&Forum=trouble&Words=p0401&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=919728&Search=true#Post920243


Last edited by Tony2005; 01/13/06 02:10 AM.

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bobunit Offline OP
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Looks like I know what Ill be doing this weekend. Thanks for the information.

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If the ambient underhood temp was below 50F when your codes were pulle, the 113 code may not be relevent. Ditto for the 117 if the engine was not at operating temp.

For the MAF, unplug it and run without it to see if the engine runs properly.

Steve


98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car 89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles 94 SHO ATX - 190K 1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K. ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!

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