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Before I post this, I searched what I could on this forum. First of all, I had a P0420 code which I"m sure it's common to everyone of you who hit 100k mark , I know there are serval soultion for me, but need more detail how to fix it. I probably go with the O2 sensor resister route which is I guess it called Mil Eliminator, let me ask you this, I believe there are 4-5 O2 sensor before and after cat, and I think they are the same part number ( correct me if I"m wrong, but according to Autozone they were the same part 4 wire heated sensor) anyways, am I suppose to do all the sensor after the cat? which sensor I need to splice the wire in to avoid the MIL to come back on , please be speicfic which one exactly. I know it's not needed to move the sensor away from the exhaust stream by using the " spark plug fouler" but is it a good idea to do both MIL elimiator and fouler mod? I do want my sensor last longer by moving it away to build up less Carbon.
Obviously , I failed the inspection because I reset the OBDII and the inspection station computer can't read anything off it so it failed, now the light come back on, once I put in the MIL Eliminator how long do I need to drive for the ECu to learn all the stuffs again before I take it in? does it go by the mileage read off the tranny or the actually engine " ON " period? please explain.


I want to say thanx in advance I have fixed many problem with the help on here before... THANX again to everyone!

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after I install the MIL Eliminator withtout reseting the ECU, will the engine light turn off by itself? If so,how long it will learn until it turn off? it's because I only have 15 days to get it repair and get it back to inspected, I dont' want to waste the money on inspection again and also my sticker is really noticable for the cop to come after me so i want to it inspect as soon as possible.

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Mil Eliminators and anti-foulers in combination are NOT needed.

There are 4 O2 sensors on this car.. two before the precat, and 2 after the cat.

the two before are referred to as "upstream" sensors and read the cars air/fuel ratio (lean or rich) they have nothing to do with catalyst efficiency.

the two after are the catalysts efficiency sensors, (downstream).

Effectively, you are ELIMINATING the downstream sensors from actually being used. there is no need to worry about "making your sensor last longer", etc, if you have mil eliminators. The eliminator circuit emulates a properly working o2 sensor, and tricks the car in to thinking that you have a properly working cat.


The way it works is this(very briefly)

the upstreams measure air:fuel ratios, the reading of which fluctuates very fast(many times a second). The readings are taken as a voltage depending on ohw rich you are, or how lean you are.

The sensors on the downstream side are after your cat (whose job is to burn up unused gas in the air coming from your engine) These sensors, because of the cat, fluctuate much slower. this is because the cat acted as a buffer.. mellowing out the changes from rich to lean. it is more stable, and averaged.

As long as your car looks at the differences between the upstream and the downstream and sees that the downstreams are trying to mimick the upstreams (only slower) then it assumes your cat is doing its job.

this is what MIL eliminators do.


the Mil eliminator is installed and "buffers" the voltage to look like it is a working downstream sensor (the car just looks for voltage, and it sees it.. so its good)



As for the CEL.. reseting it will take a full drive cycle (or two, in some cases) most likely all of a good 3 days of highway/streets/stop and go, etc. You will have to have two cold starts in there too, so just going to the store, using the highway, and going home using a street won't cut it. you need another cold start, too.



'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276 In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.


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Awesome, I just put the resistor on for both o2 sensor after the cat, I cross my finger hope that the P0420 will not come on ever again and of pass my inspection lol.. Thank you so much for the info, I hope it will help many other member who have the same problem.


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"The resistor"??

I hope you are being overly simplistic in your description of the circuit.. its got two components and would be soldered on to a small board.


not just "a resistor"




'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276 In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.



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