Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Help Re-installing Alternator bolts?

Hello.

Using Ray's handy alternator swap how-to
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=v6maint&Number=838883&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=1&vc=1

And I've got the alternator removed.

Working on a 98 SE V6 ATX

A view deviances which may be model year or the fact that I have an ATX aside, a very well written piece, thank you. When Ray says "use 8" extension" he means it!

On to my question. I can't put my hand on either of the bottom two bolts, I removed them entirely by the 'back out until they fall to the ground' method.

I am concerned that I won't be able to start them again, since I can't get a hand on them and both came off with the flex in the chain of extensions.

Does anyone have any advice for me? I know to use a scrap of papertowel to temprarily hold the bolt into the socket, and I saw to align the Alt using a bolt backwards, but, I'm very nervous about getting those bolts started.

Largest problem is there are two power steering lines directly below the back of the Alt, so I can't stick my hand up there, even to steady the socket end. Maybe I can rig up a stick or something to try and hold it in line. Now that the Alt is out, I might look to move the PS lines, but thats been my only thought so far.

Removal took me about 5 hours. It was just hard to get to the bolts with my extensions cause I couldn't duplicate exactly the lenghts Ray did, but I needed to. 6"+3" isn't 8" no matter how hard you wish it to be

You fellows who are doing this in an hour or even 3, my hats off to you. I did also look into Todras method through the driver side wheel well, but there was no going there, I couldn't even see across the car.

Thanks again Ray for the write up.

Scott

You are Certainly welcome!



What about using a pair of long tipped jewelery pliers? (incredibly long needlenose pliers)

to make up for where you can't get your fingers to?


I would, personally, run the bolt through a piece of electrical tape (go through the sticky side) and thread it all the way up to the head of the bolt.. then insert the head in to the socket and stick the tape to the socket. now you can start it with no fear of it falling out.. once its tight, the tape will either become ripped from tightening it, or you can pull it and it will pull right out from around the bolt head with your pliers.

I like that, I'll do that, thanks Ray.

The other thing I just thought of is to put a long strip of tape on the extension closested the socket to use as a pull, to perhaps pull down or help align it with the bolt hole. I can use something underneath the car, like the engine mount, as a fulcrum and gain more precision by pulling on the ratchet and this strip of tape. should give me movement in only one plane (x) and avoid movement on the horizon. better to work in 1 dimension, not two.

Thanks for the idea. I'm going to tackle install now, will report my results.

List of things I found different thus far:

98 se v6 atx
1. The bolts on the main wiring harness to engine are 5/16, not 9/32. bolts on the coil pack are 9/32

2. bolt on the back of the alt is 10mm, not 7.

3. there is no split/lock washer on the alt to mount. just the Alt.

Scott

Well, after I took the Y pipe off, it got a lot easier. Taking the Y pipe off took about 10 min (after letting liquid wrench soak on the bolts for 20 min) and I had the alt bolted up about 30 min later.

The re-assembly went smooth, but I must have damaged some wiring, as I now get a 1504 IAC failure. Otherwise the car runs very smooth, 14v, water pump is good.

What's left is to inspect the cats some more, fix the water leak in the trunk, and fix whatever I broke on the IAC.

Scott