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#1474955 01/05/06 09:56 PM
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Hello,
Im hoping to find some answers to a problem I am having with my 95 contour 16v 2.0 sohc z-tech.

It was running very high temp and fans were not coming on till it got to the last bracet line on [ normal ] and even then the fan only stayed on for a few secs.

I changed the thermostat to rule that out and hot wired the fan to run when the ignition is on but the temp still sits at the A on normal even tho the fan runs continuously.

Coolant is crystal clear and no water in oil, so I dont think it is a head,gasket,block,ect. the car does not boil over or hasent yet being its cold out.

Anyone have an suggestion for me I would appreciate it.
Thanks

PS Is it possible my gauge is reading wrong?????

#1474956 01/05/06 11:44 PM
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Have you tried replacing the ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor? That'd most likely be the cause of the fan not turning on I think.

Oh yeah, before anyone gets uppity -- it's a Zetec not a Z-tech


1995 Mercury Mystique 2.0 (125hp of FURY!) 2006 Chrysler 300C 5.7
#1474957 01/06/06 12:39 AM
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That would be my thought as well. ECT controls when the fans come on.
Does the car have good heat? If not, your cooloant is not circulating very well.


95 Contour GL. Bought new. BAT Sway Bars/Pioneer CD/Koni Rear Struts/Mobil Fluids. Looking for 15" alloy rims-PM me. 180,500km's so far.
#1474958 01/06/06 01:14 AM
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nope havent replaced anything but the thermostat so far,
wanted to get some opinions before i started to invest money into it

as for the sensor i was thinking of that also,only thing that boggles me is that the temp still stays at the A with the fan hotwired to run continuous,which is suggesting to me something other than that or maby a combonation of problems.

i have noticed my upper radiator line not being hard when i squeeze it until temp guage is all the way up before the red.
i put in a factory 192 thermostat.

#1474959 01/06/06 01:18 AM
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Originally posted by SquareHead:
That would be my thought as well. ECT controls when the fans come on.
Does the car have good heat? If not, your cooloant is not circulating very well.




heats very well also

#1474960 01/06/06 03:19 AM
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Possibly, the waterpump is partially failed. If it totally failed the heat would be poor.

#1474961 01/06/06 04:22 AM
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We have that same "mystery" on our car but I think (and am hoping) it's just the ECT sensor not turning the fan on.

Ironically, on ours I've noticed if I drive around long enough (like an hour), eventually it'll drop down to the middle of the range instead of being pegged between L and the [] at the right side.


1995 Mercury Mystique 2.0 (125hp of FURY!) 2006 Chrysler 300C 5.7
#1474962 01/06/06 09:09 PM
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The behavior of the fans (before you jumperd them to always run) sounds like the low speed fan is not working, only high-speed.

You'll find a lot of discussion about the low speed fan circuit if you search under Troubleshooting for 'low speed fan' or 'running hot'. Once you get the low-speed fan running normally, then judge whether you still have a cooling problem based on how high the temps go with fans operating as designed.

Allow me to paste in my previous post of dealing with the problem of low speed fan not turning on:

Quote:

But many people (myself included) have had problems where the lo-speed fans don't turn on, allowing the temp gauge to get up to the L range, then the high=speed fan kicks in and keeps the temps from increasing further. If that's your case its' possible the fan is your only problem.

Based on my recent experience here is my recommendations for anyone experiencing those symptoms with a Zetec. Most or all may apply for the Duratec too but can't vouch for it:

1. Check fan motor: Key in, engine off. Pull green relay in power dist. box under hood. Put a wire between contact 3 and 5 (see bottom of relay for contact #s.) Low-speed fan should run. If it does, go to step 3. If not, step 2.

2. Check lo-speed fan resistor: Bottom of fan shroud, driver side, facing rear of car. Pull connector. Put ohmmeter across two contacts, if open circuit, replace resistor. If good, test fan motor by applying twelve volts directly to the fan (or run A/C and see if fan comes on, or run engine with the ECT sensor connector unplugged). If both good, go to step 3.

3. Check engine coolant temp (ECT) sensor: Sticks straight up out of thermostat housing, under resonator. Pull connector, put ohmmeter across two contacts. If open circuit, or resistance jumps around, replace it. Maybe replace it anyway, it's only $16 and easy to replace.

4. Check wires to ECT sensor for cracking a la TSB 99M03: Pull back black covering and check wires for cracked insulation or bare wires showing. If damaged, replace fuel charge harness or have Ford do the TSB work for free if <100k.

Dont' skip 3 and 4, even if you replace the resistor in step 2. In my case, the resistor was bad and I still had to replace the wiring and ECT to get it back in order.

If all that fails, replace the low-speed fan relay, the tall green one, it's about $35.




'95 Contour GL, Zetec/ATX Repairs: * wheel bearings * sway bar stop * CV joint * alternator * shift interlock * heater tube * VSS * tensioner * ingition coil * wire harnesses * ball joint * Why do I still love it?

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