Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Sparkplugs Un-Screwing themselves?

Maybe you could jury rig something with a vacuum cleaner ductape and small rubber hose to suck out the ceramic bits. I would then try new APP764's, 4 bucks each at Pep Boys, and make sure the firing order is correct. [image][/image]

Lubricate the threads with a tiny bit of neverseize, don't get any on the ceramic part. Tighten carefully. Then be sure the wire boots are clean inside and put some silicone grease in them to seal moisture out and snap on carefully. I think it's possible wrong firing order makes vibration. I hope you don't have a broken piston. Are you sure the plug hole is stripped out?

so i actually did sort of rig up a vac., with a hose, the hose was too big so i can take care of that, but the plugs will not catch any thread at all! but the part that confuses me is that the spark plug re-thread tool has been sent through 3-4 times and it goes in and out with ease so i dont understand why that wont go it!!! the plug fits in other cylinders....will the anti-seize actually help it go it, i was under the impression that the anti-seize just helped the plug stay put

....also

the way to check the fireing order is just to make sure the wires are pluged into the right cylinder and the right port in the coil correct?

Just follow the diagram Cyl 1 to Coil port 1, etc. 4,5,6 are the Front cylinders when you stand in front of the car looking at the engine. The diagram is from driver side rear..

1 2 3 back
L R
4 5 6 front of car battery

The antiseize lubricates the threads so the plug won't get stuck later on. The plug that doesn't thread, threads in the other cylinder, just use it there (did you get new plugs?) Is that the back (firewall) center cylinder, I had trouble back there and it was the welding on the plug "L" electrode. If none of the plugs go in, maybe there is some grit in the threads near the top and it won't lead in. Can you see threads there? It seems if the thread tool,the right size threads in OK, so should a plug..

its the middle, front cylinder and no plug that i have tried fit

Now, given that this is a Duratech, good luck getting the head(s) off with the motor still in. It CAN be done but what a PITA.

Second, these plugs are tapered seat. Meaning that the threads are actually tapered to be narrower on the piston side of the threads than the "head" side. If you used a straight thread tap to clean the threads up, you'll need to drill and heli-coil that cylinder. One trick to tapping is to put TONS of grease on your tap before running it through to keep the shavings on the tap instead of falling into the cylinder.

Good luck with what ever route you decide to take. Neither is all that much fun. Personally I'd choose the second option.

See if you can look into the plug threads at night with a bright flashlight and compare how the threads look to the adjacent cylinder. It seems there "should" be some threads left even if you removed the taper. See if you can find a repair shop that has repaired threads if you find they are stripped out. It may be possible to avoid pulling apart the engine.

I would ask at a cylinder head repair shop if they can repair it without removing the cylinder head and how much it would cost.

so i took it to a shop, they got the plug in, but now the car misfires badly