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Joined: Nov 2000
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Posts: 10,015 |
My bad - I was lookig at WildChild's post and thought it was you and he said " up and down" 
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,336
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,336 |
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Joined: Nov 2000
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Nov 2000
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$1200 for a boost controller??? 
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810 |
Originally posted by ohsigmachi:
Originally posted by Stazi:
Ohsigmachi - you cannot adjust below the base setting of a wastegate's spring - that would defy the laws of physics.
Did I say you could? yes, theoreticaly you want your spring to be pretty small so you can run lower boost if you need to.
Hey, just FYI for you guys:
There is a negative to running a lower pressure spring. THe wastegate will begin to creep open easier due to exhaust pressure. I noticed it a lot more now that I have the 3.83 psi spring in there. AS the boost starts to build, combined with the exhuast pressure the gate starts to open really slowly and it sounds sucky! The spoolup time is increased and it pretty much sucks.
The ball and spring controller eliminates this as it keeps the gate from getting any boost signal until the spring is overcome, but during shifting while boosting hard, the delay between building boost up to the setting on the controller is fuggin slow and annoying. I have it set at 8psi right now and it feels like I'm loosing a second on every shift above second gear. I"m sure its just a split second, but whatever.
If you can sustain traction with the 6pound spring, then run it and you'll eliminate most of that. Basically, run the heaviest spring you can and still make traction in 1st gear with whatever tires you've got.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 259
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OP
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Posts: 259 |
So far on my list I have came up with this Focus-power turbo manifold (T3 flange) $595  EPS Turbo TURBONETICS Evolutions series wastegate $208  EPS Turbo Greddy Type-RS BOV $190  Jdmagroup Greddy BOV adapter flange pipe 2.5" or 3" availible $24-34.99  PIT BCU+ boost controller with a little extra not to bad I think for $260. An ebay sale for something better around this price will be considered first though.  ADC custom chip and tunning $3-800 $2077.99 spent so far, a little more than the paint job I got for the car. I have a turbo in mind, and this total doesn't include pipe fabricating, air to water intercooler(optional) and drivetrain upgrades for LSD, driveshafts, clucth/flywheel, and MTX rebuild(w/118k miles). Also doesn't inlude a change I want to do of all hoses(water, fuel) on the car since those are pushing 10 years, and might be starting to break down, along with alot of the wires that may have corrosion around the engine.
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Joined: Nov 2000
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You HAVE all this stuff already or planning on buying it?
The exhaust manifold looks good but skip on the Turbonetics WG and get a TiAL (w/min 6lb spring), TiAL are WAY more reliable. Also save yourslef some money and forget the GReddy BOV and get a Turbo XS Type H-RFL (or a knock off from eBay) It's about $50-100 cheaper than a GReddy, and you can find a pipe with the adapter for that on ebay too for $30(like the one you posted for the GReddy BOV).
If you're gonna go with my GT28R you'll nee the exhaust manifold to have a T2 flange NOT T3. Electronic boost controllers are nice but you can get a PowerPack Dual Stage boost controller (like what I have) from Dawes Devices http://www.dawesdevices.com/powerpack.html for under $100 it is a ball/spring type BC so it has awesomely fast spool up.
Finally for $600 you can get in on the SCT Pro Racer Package GB through Brenspeed. You can have Brent set you up with your mods (type of injectors, MAF, etc.) But seeing as you're so close to ADC I say "get your ass to Keiths!" to let him tune it himself. - just trailer it there - DO NOT DRIVE IT THERE UNTUNED!!
All these suggestions will save you a bunch of money - and we all like doing that! 
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 259
CEG\'er
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 259 |
Just some initail planning for now. I like to put things down on paper sort of speak because I'll forget and might buy something else. I didn't know if those knock off BOV from ebay would be as reliable as the real thing, but I've seen them listed for around $50. I will most likely go with yours, and do a JGS Precision turbo manifold than. They have a T2 flange option, and a Tail wastegate welded flange option and it cost about half the price and comes almost completely welded together. That reminds me, are you going to include the two compressor flanges with yours or do I just need hose couplers. Also, what exhaust downpipe flange do I need to get, the std five bolt T25/T28 stlye, or the round 6 bolt style. I looked up the turbo info, and noticed that they offer different turbine and compressor housing for this turbo, and I wasn't sure which ones you are using.
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Joined: Nov 2000
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I'll give you both compressor flanges, and it uses the standard funky 5-bolt T2 exhaust housing pattern. The round pattern is a VW thing, IIRC.
The JGS headers look decent. My only qualm is that they use a single piece of metal for the flange. Not ideal. Each exhaust port flange should be separate from the other to allow for thermal expansion. So you should cut between each port (including the stud holes of course) with a band saw, before installing. But after looking closer they use 0.5" thick flanges so that may no be an issue.
JGS's WG's and BOV's look pretty well made too. Maybe you can get all three from them and get a discount - It's worth asking. 
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 536
Veteran CEG\'er
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 536 |
i still need a manifold and the sct pro kit. im waiting for an extra $600 for the pro kit but i can get a manifold. im going to be using a TE04H turbo and am not sure what manifold to get. the problem is that the turbine outlet is pointed 90 degrees from the inlet so the inlet has to pointed almost horizontal. any body have any ideas for the manifold.
97 contour gl mtx
front & rear upper strut tower braces
19mm bat sway bar
Koni struts w/GC knockoffs
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Yeah, reclock the turbo. If you loosen the bolts you can turn the outlet.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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