Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Performance Whats going on with the turbo Mr. Hightower was working on???

Yep

running 20 lbs of boost is nice, but 2 bar is better

20 lbs on Duratec equals KABLOOEY! (thats the sound your engine will make as you step on the gas)
The kit Mr. Hightower is working on will probably run 10 lbs boost...you'd be lucky to see 14 lbs run safely.
Edit..hehe...I really don't know what I'm talking about...but IT IS a safe guess

Tony, check your damn PM's :p

LOL Chris, I think the Phrase should be you check your damn PM's Your the one with the full mailbox!!! LOL

Dare I post in a topic now that I have been rated an astronomical 2 stars? Of course I will. I respect Mr. Hightower for his work. We still need the turbo. Its all bout respect, the tique don't got much from others. Anyways lookin forward to the release of the kit... Peace out!

I wasn't refering to the duratech, i should have clarified I was talking about DemonSVT's comment about 4 bangers running 20 lbs. to even run 10 lbs i think that would require some beefed up gaskets, Ti valve springs and of course LC pistons. My buddy with a 95 cobra blue a head gasket running 10 lbs on a jackson racing s/c. I don't know the compression on it tho, might ask Rara. But thats the beauty of the turbo, change the boost on the fly I would just be careful, cuz its better to loose a race then boost within whizzing distance of blowing a gasket and messing your sh*t up.

I NEED TO GO BACK TO SCHOOL!!!!

The 2.6l (truck motor ) is vary stout to begin with & runs roller followers & auto-lash adjustors already. (ahead of it's time ) Only the head & balance shaft are the weak pont (replaced head with a Marnal unit, removed the B.S. and B&B'd the engine)
Yes, forged everything, studs, stainless fasteners & gaskets, and composite head gasket, custom grind cam, large intercooler, all mandrel bent IC piping, 3" downpipe & exhaust.
It ran turbos ranging from the stock 320cfm@15psi 12A to a worked over 675+cfm@15psi TD05/6H-20G (12A, S60, 14G, S16G, T3/4 V Trim, 20G - In order of size/CFM) Boost pressure ranging from the stock 12A @ 10psi to the 20G @ 20psi (just a hair past the F.I. limitations ) I did run the T3/4 at 22psi (which equates to the 20G at ~15-16psi)

For reference. The stock 1G DSM turbo (14B) flows a hair less then the Super 60. For those who have owned DSM's...

As for taking into account higher CR...

Detonation??? Detonation would come far before you would achieve enough airflow to surpass a N/A engine. Or best case scenario at the point you equal it.

The S60 (like I stated) would fatten up the bottom end nicely, but by 6000rpm would not be any better than a N/A engine. Not at the boost level require to stave of engine damage & detonation anyway.
That's why I state a larger compressor at lower boost. The VVNT technology would compensate for the larger compressor.
Even my "truck" engine achieved full boost just past 3000rpm with the huge 20G compressor & ran it up to 7500rpm or more on a daily basis. (stock redline was 6k) It's all in how you set up the intake and exhaust...

Ok a couple of questions and comments(it is refreshing to be able to discuss Turbo's with someone who appears to know what they are talking about )
1.Detonation... that isn't as bad as most people make it out to be.. :rolleyes: LOL, actually, That can be controlled to a degree with your igntion timing, octane rating, and yes even alky injection... so I would be more worried about optimal flow, surge lines , and stall of the compressor on the turbo(at least in the selecting phase)
2.Yes the super60 would fatten up the Lower end nicely, but at 6000RPM's at only 8-10 psi of boost you will have Plenty left to get you where you are going... at 1bar of boost the super60 on a VNT Turbo(basically a T28 compressor(same thing as the super 60.. jsut different shaft design)) can flow 510 CFM...I guess its just my opinion to State that It can hold it...
3. as for your "truck"
motor dying at 6000rpm's... LOL of course it would with a Super60 at 20 psi.. LOl it gets maxed out on a 2.3 liter at about 18psi..(ask any volvo guy or Ford SVO/XR4Ti guy)... so at 20-22 psi..LOL you are basically blowing hot air...
4. Comparing the Ratio of one turbo at the limit of its efficiency range to another turbo at a different range is not a good practice... You have to deal with impeller speed, efficiency as related thermodynamics of the flow of air out of the compressor, wastgate SIZE(a big problem WIth DSM's.. take a look inside em if you really wanna see some funny stuff..) and turbine housing/turbine seclection... what size housing is that 14b running , an 060, an 050.. etc... See you run into alot of hybrid turbos in the DSM world, because the Design of the Mitsu's turbine/housing is far superior to an older T03/04 series turbo(even more so that the T3, t60/61/67.. etc turbos...)But the Range of Wheels is a little more diverse in the garret world(ever try finding flow maps for a C series, no wait a G series, no wait an A series, n wait a B series mitsu in a 12, 13,15,16,18,20 size? LOL its a Royal Pain in the donkey).
4.When you say your truck engine acheived full boost at 3000 RPM and attained it till redline.. yes thats understandable on a large turbo running at high boost, but try running a large turbo on an engine that cant handle it, and then to top it off, run it at a boost level that is less than 1 bar(or at least less than the optimal flow value of the turbo.. look at a compressor map on the PRESSURE ratio side, you can roughly figure out the good area to boost at pressure wise, based on the "thickness" if you will, of the MAP in the X-axis direction at that Pressure Ratio Rating)...If you run it at this speed you run into Surge Problems, and also droping off of the other end of the efficiency map into a stall situation...yes the turbo can spin at 15000 RPMS, and give you 8 psi of boost, but you are only boosting at 55% effieciency(just an example.. by no means real numbers) because the turbo is deisgned to run at a different boost setting on a different airflow rating..It's like using a 5foot diameter shop fan to cool you sitting in front of it by like 3degrees, itll spin like 10-12 rpms... when it would be better to use a smaller personal sized fan at 300-400 rpms to get you the same cooling effect...Or the opposite, running a small fan to cool you down alot, but running it at 10000RPMS, where a big shop fan at 600RPMS would do the trick...(these are just numbers pulled out my butt, but you see my point?) THIS is the whole reason there are compressor maps... NOT just CFM ratings for Turbo's.....SEE?