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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 12
New CEG\'er
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OP
New CEG\'er
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 12 |
My wheels shakes constantly and I've narrowed it down to either the rotorsw or the tierods. I lifted up the car this weekend and looked around to see what the problem was and saw that the rotors were pretty rusted on the outside diameter. I also shook the wheel and it wiggles about a 1/4 inch from left to right on each of the front wheel (laterally not vertically). The thing is that the car doesn't wobble until I use the brakes, I guess because the rotor haven't warmed up yet. So I'm thinking it's more likely the rotors then the tierods.
But if it is the tierods, I read in the manual and it looks like the tie rods isn't too hard to replace if I don't have to remove the ball joint. I also saw that there was threads on the tierods and wanted to know (pretty dumb question) if I can "tighten" it instead of replacing it. I already know that I'm going to replace the rotors and brakes this weekend and if I can tighten the tierod ends then that would save me the extra money and the trouble of lifting up the car again. Thanks
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,029
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,029 |
If the tie rod is causing the vibration, you will need a new one. Tightening it will change the alignment. The part that is causing the vibration is not beacuse it is "loose" on a threaded piece. It is inside the tie rod that is causing the vibration(Will make sense when you compare old vs. new tie rod ends). But yes, they are about 15 minutes to change, and they are kinda cheap also, about $20 IIRC. Just make sure you count how many turns it takes to remove the old tie rod, and put the new one back on with the same number of turns.
Scott
Scott
Mabe I WILL be Phil.
1999 Contour SVT, Tropic Green
BAT kit, K&N RU-3530+MAF, Magnecore 8.5mm, some audio goodies, Hightowers, Knauberized, tatoo by Parkedcar.
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 12
New CEG\'er
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OP
New CEG\'er
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 12 |
Thanks. What does IIRC mean BTW?
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,345
Addicted CEG\'er
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Addicted CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,345 |
Originally posted by Tobascojapan:
Thanks. What does IIRC mean BTW?
IIRC, it means, If I Recall (Remember) Correctly. 
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 410
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 410 |
I would check the ball joints as well. Rotors are cheap now so I put new ones on every time I change my front pads.
Those ball joints are fun to drill out. I took my sawz-all and cut the heads of them and then pounded them out.
Easy!
95 Contour GL. Bought new.
BAT Sway Bars/Pioneer CD/Koni Rear Struts/Mobil Fluids.
Looking for 15" alloy rims-PM me.
180,500km's so far.
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 21,653
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 21,653 |
Rotors will only do it when braking.
Have you checked everything? Bent wheel, horribly balanced wheel, separating tire, etc.?
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 16
New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 16 |
Could be your rotors are slightly out of round and tie rods are warn. When you hit the brakes, it causes the wheels to shake because of the 1/4" play.
If there is that much play, I would change mine. This will cause fast tire wear.
Wheel lug nuts may not be torqued correctly, try that first.
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