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I am having problems getting the lower ball joint out of the hub. Does anyone have ideas on how to do it. I can get it half way out, but not the rest.  Thanks, Dale
1995 Contour GL 2.5
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use a chizle to open up the hub around the ball joint and use lots of penatrating oil
- 95 Mystique LS - Zetec/5spd
- 99 Contour SeVT Sport - Duratec/5spd
Official NE-CEG Contour/Mustang Family
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LONG pry bar through the control arm, and then under the car. pry downwards and it goes low enough to pop out.
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Joined: Dec 2001
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Originally posted by Ray:
LONG pry bar through the control arm, and then under the car. pry downwards and it goes low enough to pop out.
if you have a post 98 can't do that with the pre98 arms
- 95 Mystique LS - Zetec/5spd
- 99 Contour SeVT Sport - Duratec/5spd
Official NE-CEG Contour/Mustang Family
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Correct.. didn't mention it, or even notice he had a 95..
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Joined: Dec 2001
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by Ray:
Correct.. didn't mention it, or even notice he had a 95..
didn't catch that myself either, was just pointing the difference out
- 95 Mystique LS - Zetec/5spd
- 99 Contour SeVT Sport - Duratec/5spd
Official NE-CEG Contour/Mustang Family
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It is a 95. I managed to get one side off by compressing the spring, jacking up the hub and prying on the control arm. I have not been able to get the other side yet, so if there is a trick to it I can still use it. Haynes and the Ford service CD make it seem like it just falls out  , but I do not think the lower arm goes low enough. Even the arm I did get out does not bend down enough. I am comtemplating drilling out the ball joint from the lower arm since I have cut the grease seal on both sides  . Thanks for the help, Dale
1995 Contour GL 2.5
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That's the "normal" procedure for replacing the control arm completely.. drill out the balljoint, and replace with a new one, that is secured with hardware.
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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I had to do both sides on my '95. I jacked up the hub assembly, and used a bar to pry the ball joint out. Dril the rivits out (aka pain the butt!), bolts the new ones in and pop it all back together.
Took about 45 minutes a side this time. New pinch bolt and hardware along with premium balljoints that are now greasable is really nice. Next time should be easier with no drilling required. THe old ones lasted 200K km so if these ones go that far I'll be very happy. Oh yeah, if you got the greasable ones don't forget to grease them. I use the best full synthetic grease I can buy.
1994 White Mazda B3000 4x4, 5 speed, lifted, Jet chip, UDP, K&N.
1995 Pumice Metallic Contour LX, 2.5l V6, 5 speed.
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easiest way:
remove the pinch bolt, then pry on the control arm with a LONG prybar. if that dont do it hammer a pickle fork in the balljoint while prying (air chisel pickle fork is easiest)
cut an "X" in the head of the rivet, then air chisel it off. after all 3 are off, use the air chisel bit in between the balljoint and the control arm, it pops right out. i just did 2 balljoints in about 30 min with this method on a 98 zetec contour at work (im a mechanic and used a lift and all the right tools thats why i did it so fast)
Russell
Oval Port 3L Nearly Done
MTX75 w/ Homebrew Zetec FD and Torsen Complete
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