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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,176
CEG'er
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CEG'er
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,176 |
Keith,
If your talking about the low-intermediate sun gear thrust bearing #5 7H027 there should be one. Check the low sungear inner diameter, it might be stuck in there....it could look like a piece of the assembly...
You may have a hard time finding the old #2 Direct Clutch Thrust Washer... 7G116. This is plastic and tends to fall apart.
Bob
An ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 13
New CEG\'er
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OP
New CEG\'er
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 13 |
Thanks Bob, I'll double check, but I already checked both surfaces pretty closely. Maybe I should tidy up the work area a bit too, to see if it ran up under somthing. You were right on about the plastic washer. It was in several pieces. Does it not come with a rebuild kit or a thrust bearing kit?
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 13
New CEG\'er
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OP
New CEG\'er
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 13 |
Oh, never mind. I see what you're saying about "finding" the other washer. I thought you meant it was a "hard to find" part. Duhh. It was actually sitting right there where it belonged, but in about six pieces.
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,176
CEG'er
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CEG'er
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,176 |
Keith,
Plastic thrust washer does come with rebuild kit. Check your forward drum very carefully for cracks, etc. If in doubt replace it.
Bob
An ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 13
New CEG\'er
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OP
New CEG\'er
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 13 |
Thanks, I had heard about that, and I've checked it pretty closely visually. Is there a standard way to do a crack-check on it - some sort of leak-check procedure - or is a good visual inspection good enough? (when they crack, is it usually obvious?)
(btw, I found the missing thrust bearing - I had misplaced it - it's hell getting old)
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,176
CEG'er
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CEG'er
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,176 |
The only leak check you can do is when you have it together and you use the check plate bolted to the case where the valve body bolts on. You apply uner 20 lbs psi (if I recall correclty - don't use too much air pressure or you wil blow the seals) You should hear a good solid piston engagement. As you hold the rubber tipped air chuck to the plate, with air off, when you remove the chuck you should feel and hear the air being pushed back as the piston collapses back. You only need to briefly tap the air chuck for air. If you hear a hisstin sound an no pressure is being held, it could be bad or misinstalled piston seal, cracked housing, etc.
Eliminates the guesswork for sure.
Bob
An ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
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