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man, talk about bad luck. a couple weeks ago my alternator died, with 178k on the clock, and it being the stocker as far as I know, I wasn't too mad about it. I had a mechanic friend of mine help me replace it with a rebuilt one from pep-boys (still paid the guy for helping me though).
well over the last week or so my battery light has come on once or twice. once I was at a light, and as soon as I took off it went away. last night, it came on, I drove for a few minutes and it was still on, so I parked it. well just now I took it about 25 yards and the light went away.
my question, is my rebuilt alternator about to die too? I mean, it has a 1 year warranty, but as well all know it's a SERIOUS PITA to change out, and I don't want to do it unnecessarily. is there anything else that might be causing this, or do I need to face the facts and go pull this alternator out while I have a day off?
1995 SE
2.5L V6/MTX
187k
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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 10,015
Hard-core CEG'er
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2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Test the battery and alternator.
Then test the Mega(Maxi)fuse (behind the coil pack).
Per Ray, some of the reasons for a shorted megafuse. "Excessive current draw from a bad VR, or water on the fuse (leaking trunk liner), or shorted battery terminals. Also a seized/cracked alternator (as is actually pretty common!! lol) can cause the fuse to blow."
Originally posted by Ray:
Alternator
the "batt light" has nothing to do with the battery. it is actually a "charging system indicator light".
Replace the alternator, or POSSIBLY the megafuse (only thing that negates the megafuse is the off-and-on light. a megafuse would cause a steady light at all times, which you had at the END but not at the beginning.
1. Check the fuse, first (under the coilpack.. you'll see two metal posts sticking up.. measure resistance across them.. should be near 0)
2. Measure running voltage(alternator): check voltage across battery terminals while running.. should be 13.8-14.7 +- .3
3. Measure off-voltage(battery): turn off car, remove surface charge (interior and headlights on for 60 seconds)..
should be >=12.0
How-to for alternator replacement is under Duratec Maintenance FAQ
Ray
Edit. Also check the wires as suggested by Stazi. LOL. Both typing at the same time.
Last edited by Tony2005; 11/08/05 07:48 PM.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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thanks Stazi, one more quick question though.
with the battery light on, I see that it's the reference wire that's causing the problem. so is the battery/alternator really holding a low charge, or is the light just on?
I'm going to try this fix, but I'm not convinced it isn't just a problem with the alternator, since it is in fact rebuilt. so if I test the voltage, and it's low, does that mean it's deff. the alternator? or will the wiring fix also fix the low voltage, or even better yet:
if the wiring is the problem, should I be experiencing low voltage?
1995 SE
2.5L V6/MTX
187k
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 157
CEG\'er
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Originally posted by platinum_drew:
thanks Stazi, one more quick question though.
with the battery light on, I see that it's the reference wire that's causing the problem. so is the battery/alternator really holding a low charge, or is the light just on?
I'm going to try this fix, but I'm not convinced it isn't just a problem with the alternator, since it is in fact rebuilt. so if I test the voltage, and it's low, does that mean it's deff. the alternator? or will the wiring fix also fix the low voltage, or even better yet:
if the wiring is the problem, should I be experiencing low voltage?
Yes!! because the VR doesnt have a good reference voltage and then it surges the output, thus causing flickering.
~Crystian
2000 Se sport
2001 Lightning(Sorry!your mom cant come with us)
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