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#1430090 11/05/05 08:40 PM
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Ok, i was working on my E-brake on my 95 SE, and to get at the cables i had to lower my exhaust. Being as it is a 95 the bolts were seized to all hell. I tried anti-sieze and WD-40, nothing worked. So i got frustrated and cut them off with and angle grinder. Now i need to rethread the bolts on, but i cant get the bolts out of the Y-pipe. Again ive tried WD-40 and Antisieze, ive banged on it like mad with a hammer, ive treid using a socket set, a wrench, anything. Nothing will get them off. what can i do???


99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760 230.2 WHP @ 6500 237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.


much like your weiner.


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You have two choices here..

1.Get out the drill and start using foul language because it's taking forever

2. Get some heat on the subject, and Oxy-Acetylene setup would be best if you have access to one. Heat the area around the seized bolts on the flange until it glows red (be careful not to melt it) then give it a smack with a hammer and it will shoot out with no problems.

Good Luck

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You DID try PB plaster, right? That stuff crawls in to microscopic places and plays King Kong on those little Oriental rust pieces!




Spray it down every 15 minutes, optimally spraying it to soak overnight, then starting up the 15 minute soak ordeal again in the morning. try to loosen them at the end of each 15 minute period.

Ray


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Heat heat heat heat till the bolt is red hot. Then splash on lots of cold water.

All those ticking sounds are the sounds of rust frozen fasteners letting go.

It should come right off after that.

If it still refuses after that then the penetrating oil will work a lot better because of the cracks that have opened up thanks to the heat.

I have usually been able to get somewhat rounded nuts off like this with just a handheld propane torch.


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Just use a grinder, cut the bs. hehe. This is a last resort of course.


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looks like a propane torch is the way to go, hopefully i can get this [censored] off, my car has enough resonation to rumble my ass to kingdom come.


99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760 230.2 WHP @ 6500 237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.


much like your weiner.


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The studs are splined, and if you hit it hard enough they should come out. Be carefull if you are working on the cat, as the vibrations might damage the catalyst matrix inside. I too have used lots of heat and PB Blaster, and eventually got the studs out. One required drilling.

Replacement studs can be had at a Ford Dealer for the cat itself, but I dont know about the rest of the system. The studs are not cheap: I seem to remember $5-10 each, and you need 2. Better than a new cat though...


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Heat it up with whatever you have handy ( propane will work fine ) Get a candle. Touch it to the bolt when you have it hot enough. The wax will wick itself in. Removal will be a whole lot simpler then. I used this trick when trying to free up overtorqued and frozen wheel bolts ( yes, bolts !! ) Works awesome.


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cant i just go to a hardware store and buy some bolts and do it that way?


99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760 230.2 WHP @ 6500 237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.


much like your weiner.


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Yes ,best to make sure they are the same approx diameter (don't be using 6mm bolts with huge washers for example)

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