Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 217
T
CEG\'er
OP Offline
CEG\'er
T
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 217
I get faint turbo-like sound at low rpm. How can I determine if this is alternator whine?

It's original battery and alternator since 1998. No problems starting or lights dimming so far. Is there simple check I can do?

Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,345
T
Addicted CEG\'er
Offline
Addicted CEG\'er
T
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,345
Originally posted by TSIN03SE:
I get faint turbo-like sound at low rpm. How can I determine if this is alternator whine?

It's original battery and alternator since 1998. No problems starting or lights dimming so far. Is there simple check I can do?



7 years is a long time for a battery and alternator.

Battery test. Engine off, turn lights on for one minute. Voltage should be 12 to 12.5.

Alternator test. Engine running, voltage should be 14 to 14.5.

In addition, you may want to disconnect the alternator belt to see if the sound is still there. If it is the bearings, there was a post earlier on that.

http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=trouble&Number=621508&Forum=trouble&Words=tensioner%20pulley&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=250&Old=allposts&Main=621508&Search=true#Post621508

Last edited by Tony2005; 10/23/05 11:05 PM.

"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 217
T
CEG\'er
OP Offline
CEG\'er
T
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 217
Tony, Thanks for the info. I will do the tests and come back. The other article was good read too.

Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 217
T
CEG\'er
OP Offline
CEG\'er
T
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 217
Ok, finally got a chance to do the quick checks.

Engine idle, battery voltage reads 14.4V

Engine off, lights on for 1 minute, voltage reads 12.03V

So it seems it's borderline case for battery replacement. Is that your assessment too? What would you do?

Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,345
T
Addicted CEG\'er
Offline
Addicted CEG\'er
T
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,345
Originally posted by TSIN03SE:
Ok, finally got a chance to do the quick checks.

Engine idle, battery voltage reads 14.4V

Engine off, lights on for 1 minute, voltage reads 12.03V

So it seems it's borderline case for battery replacement. Is that your assessment too? What would you do?



I would not change the battery and alternator (yet). The whine could be something else. Maybe an idler pulley or tensioner (or just radio interference). If you are not having any drivability issues, save your money for later. A month ago, I tested my battery (5.5 years 38k miles) and alternator (6.5 years 48K miles). 12.00V and 14.48V respectively. I decided not to mess with it.


"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 217
T
CEG\'er
OP Offline
CEG\'er
T
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 217
Too late I went ahead and changed the battery.

I haven't driven a distance yet so it's hard to tell but will report back after Monday.

I've been having power windows that struggles to close and with fresh battery it's zipping up faster. So maybe it will work out.

Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 217
T
CEG\'er
OP Offline
CEG\'er
T
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 217
My battery replacement effort was worth it. The whining noise has been reduced to barely audible and there is snap to how the power windows operate.

I should also mention the old battery had a lot of corrosion around the terminals. I've maintained it best I could by brushing off the corrosion and spraying it with the terminal protector several times over last two years.

All in all $40 well spent. (If it means delaying replacing my alternator another 2 years it's worth it's weight in gold!)

Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,693
B
Hard-core CEG'er
Offline
Hard-core CEG'er
B
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,693
Just a point of information. Cleaning off the tops of the battery terminals when they are corroded really does very little good. The connections need to be taken apart and cleaned thoroughly, to the point that the contacts become shinny bright. If this is not done, the poor contact caused by the corrosion creates high resistance which means a poor connection. Take them apart. Soak them in a baking soda and water solution. Wire brush them. Scrape them if needed. Then reassemble with some sort of corrosion resistant material. I use dielectric grease, and most any grease will do. After everything is assembled, spray paint over the top of it may help as well.


Jim Johnson 98 SVT 03 Escape Limited
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 217
T
CEG\'er
OP Offline
CEG\'er
T
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 217
Thank you, Jim, for ever-prudent advice.

Just a little clarification though, when reassembling the connection, apply grease AFTER tightening not before. Metal to metal contact(crimp and battery terminal) is the critical junction and nothing should be in between.

Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,693
B
Hard-core CEG'er
Offline
Hard-core CEG'er
B
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,693
Put the grease between the connections. The tiny film will not be a conductivity problem and it will help keep the corrosion from coming back between the connections.

The electrical effect of the film of grease is nil, but the effect of even a little discoloration from corrosion can be massive.


Jim Johnson 98 SVT 03 Escape Limited

Moderated by  horseydug_dup1, Ray_dup1 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5