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Originally posted by KnuKonceptz:
Is BNMotorsports now offering gorrilla's too  Only on rental basis, not to purchase. :p
Brad Noon '99 SE MTX 3 point oh my God H.O. 179HP/178TQ BNMotorsports Floormats, powder coating, TB optimizing, Gutted cats, etc BNMotorsports is now the preferred distributor of Contour/SVT/Mystique Indiglo style gauges!!!bnmotorsports@msn.com
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Brad, Alex, all... This is really the kind of info I was looking for, particularly the particulars of the various generations of the Duratec 3.0. The '01-and-on motor sounds the most interesting to me in terms of reliability and power. The big compression ratios are kind of off-putting to me with the 2.5 heads. Brad, not to sound like too much of a dunce, but here goes.  What is "the 2.5 FEAD?" Thanks, --Dave
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Originally posted by racerdave: Brad, Alex, all...
This is really the kind of info I was looking for, particularly the particulars of the various generations of the Duratec 3.0. The '01-and-on motor sounds the most interesting to me in terms of reliability and power. The big compression ratios are kind of off-putting to me with the 2.5 heads.
Brad, not to sound like too much of a dunce, but here goes. What is "the 2.5 FEAD?"
Thanks,
--DaveRead step 7. 7. Shop manual. Need one. Assemble the engine using all of the steps in the manual. Both the three liter with the 2.5 heads and the full three liters with three liter heads need to use the 2.5 FEAD (Front Engine Accessory Drive IIRC). That means use the 2.5 front timing cover, alternator, power steering pump, etc.It means where he pullies are and how they line up in relation to each other that keeps the belt on.
Brad Noon '99 SE MTX 3 point oh my God H.O. 179HP/178TQ BNMotorsports Floormats, powder coating, TB optimizing, Gutted cats, etc BNMotorsports is now the preferred distributor of Contour/SVT/Mystique Indiglo style gauges!!!bnmotorsports@msn.com
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Originally posted by Rara: well, I'm not brad, but I'll see what I can do 
1. Personally, I think the 3L heads are a better choice (over the 2.5L SVT heads) in most possible configurations of a 3L in an SVT (or non-SVT for that matter) for many reasons. The only real advantage of the 2.5L heads on the 3L block is a big jump in compression ratio. This can be a mixed blessing; it will help to make more power, but at the expense of much higher likelyhood of detonation due to the higher CR, as well as the effects the 2.5 head has on the squish band (several effects are involved there, and though I don't quite understand all of the stuff going on there, one thing is the increased likelyhood of hotspots that will contribute to det.)
The 3L head also comes with larger valves, allowing for increased flow into and out of the cylinders (SVE considered adding these larger valves for the 2.5 also, but cost and already having met the power targets kept them from doing so)
2. Any "factory calibration" will not be optimal on any modified engine, let alone a heavily modified one. A custom DYNO-tuned chip will be the best choice in most cases. Also note, the stock fuel system is not likely to be up to handling a modified 3L. larger injectors, compensated for in the ECU, or increased fuel pressure are likely to be necessary to feed the beast.
Honestly, If I was building a 3L right now (unfortunately I'm not in a position to right now) I would get an 01+ long block, balance and blueprint it (if I could afford it) port and polish the heads (I would at least clean them up a bit) use the cams from the SVT (or the unobtanium SVE cams that David Z managed to get)...i can get a hold of the last set available... if someone wants to manufacture them i will get you in touch with who has them, along with paying for the set and giving me a free set if not, i will just scoop them up as soon as i get the cash... just picking up the cams without doing the 3.0L swap isn't something i really want to do, considering the amount of work involved for what i assume is small gains on the 2.5svt motor...
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OMG, you might just become everybody's new hero. I know there is a CEG'er involved in cam grinding somewhere.
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Hey Brad, What was the lift on the cams? Did you find the duration as well?
Yankeyspeed: American power and ingenuity
95 SE -Stock enough
Yeah my car has a baby seat, its still fast.
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I don't recollect exactly what it was in tenths of an inch, so I won't start any rumors. Terry stated that factory lift is 9mm though. I used a stick on magnetic degree wheel with pointer and found the duration. You can get one through Summit racing. I checked 4 positions on the front and rear side of the ramp as well as max lift vs degrees. The 3 liter cams were only marginally better which could have even been due to wear. Not enough difference to chase after. I have another set from my second 3 liter that I can measure again if I get time someday though...
Brad Noon '99 SE MTX 3 point oh my God H.O. 179HP/178TQ BNMotorsports Floormats, powder coating, TB optimizing, Gutted cats, etc BNMotorsports is now the preferred distributor of Contour/SVT/Mystique Indiglo style gauges!!!bnmotorsports@msn.com
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I finally started tearing in to my dead 2.5L. I didn't get as far as I wanted to this weekend on the CSVT. Most of the fluids are drained, hoses pulled of the radiator, some of the exhaust system disconnected and a few items here and there. Not hard at all but just time consuming so far. Some stuff is hard to get too. Plus I spent a lot of time reassuring myself that I had the proper jackstand points(used the same point where the car jack would go).
I have to make some significant progress on it this weekend. Actually, I would like to have the engine and transmission out by Saturday. I think my new engine should be here some time this week. I'm trying to figure out how David Z got his engine and tranny out together through the top. How did he disconnect the drive shafts??? I'm assuming that he took apart the front wheels to do it.
Curtis
Dead 98 Black SVT
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It's all in the Ford manual - loosen the strut at the tower, remove the lower suspension arm ball joint from the hub, pull back on the hub and tap out the halfshaft. Two person job, drivers side is a real pain. (Unless you happen to have a slide hammer with a halfshaft adapter)
'00 CSVT #570 - 3L
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Steve, thanks. I haven't reviewed the shop manuals yet as I haven't made it that point. I'm sure I'll be there by this weekend, I hope. How difficult was it to put back together???
Curtis
Dead 98 Black SVT
92K
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