Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Performance 3-liter conversion

Ok, ok, you Search Facists keep quiet.

Has anyone actually put together a document (or two or three) on the 3-liter conversion, etc?

Searching the forums is a great way to find snippets of info that are scattered all over the place... pretty inefficient for a serious undertaking like the conversion.

Just wondering...

--Dave

Although this does provide some insight, it isn't exactly a "How To" document that someone could follow. I for one would LOVE to see a fully documented install with pictures!

Haynes manual, Chapter 2 is engine disassembly and reassembly. That's as good a how-to as you are going to find. David Z's FAQ answers any and all questions that are specific to the 3.0 stuff (like block mods). It really does go together like the old block (pretty much, nothing is ever easy when it comes to Ford).

I will have pictures of the bare 3 liter block with modifications someday... A "how to" is out of the question for the rest of the assembly because I (and the others who have done it) refuse to rewrite what's in the rebuild manuals. The only parts you HAVE to use with this swap is the 2.5 front timing cover (retains factory FEAD), 3 liter head gaskets (regaurdless of which heads you use), 2.5 flywheel if MTX (crank must be ground down or cut to clear pilot shaft). Everything else is up to the person doing the swap/mods to the car and can be custom or stock 2.5 hardware. Prepping the block is obvious once you have everything disassembled and are test fitting for reassembly. The mechanically inclined should have no problem performing this swap.

So your answers were in the site's FAQ area and the Factory Service Manuals (or Haynes - shudder ) Which IMO anyone should own if they plan on working on thier cars.

Now what about these search facists... :rolleyes:

Yup, prety much. USE SEARCH!!! :p

Now, now, not so fast... Perry's URL wasn't on a search that I found right away... even though it *was* added to the Mods FAQ page on c.org. I guess my fear of the search police so distracted me that I forgot to check the Mods FAQ page. :p

Oh, since I have your attention Brad, how long would you need to have the 'Tour out of commission to do the swap? (assuming all the 3-liter prep work is complete).

Thanks,

--Dave

PS -- A "how-to" doc wouldn't be that evil... just reference the manuals where needed.

PPS -- I started this thread mainly just to see if there was a place where all of you 3-liter-heads had pooled your obvious expertise and knowledge... apart from the umpteen threads that search would turn up.
Obviously there are more "gotchas" that are in the threads than the FAQ... so maybe if I have a few hours to kill one day I'll gather the details from a thread search and complile it into one doc.

I am looking for something a lot more informative ... not a manefesto like "you must do this". The one very well documented project that comes to mind is from a bloke in England who took a 2.0 Mondeo block and used the 1.6L CVH Heads and is making 140+ hp. His project is extremely well documented: http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/stepbystep.htm

3 liter step by step flow chart:

1. Buy appropriate year 3 liter DOHC ('98+ if you're using your 2.5 heads, '01+ if you want a more direct swap.) If you're using '01+ block, skip to step 5.

2. Buy 3 liter head gaskets, buy the rest of the gaskets for the 2.5.

3. Disassemble the 3 liter down to short block. Short block in this case means block, crank, rods, pistons, and oil pump. Throw the rest away (including the oil pickup tube and 3 liter windage tray) or sell it to someone who wants/needs the parts. Several of the sensors can be kept as spares as several have the same part numbers as the 2.5.

4. Oil holes... Fill the bottom oil return passage at the rear of the block on both left and right banks using allen plugs and/or cold weld epoxy. There's an oil feed passage on the right bank of some years of three liters that needs to be blocked as well. Drill and tap this hole and top off with cold weld to ensure it stays.

4a. There's an extra mounting flange on the right bank of the 3 liter block (pre '01 anyway) that is not present on the 2.5 blocks. This must be cut off to clear the Contour alternator mounting area.

5. ATX owners skip this step. Grind off approx 1/4" off of the transmision end of the crank to clear the MTX pilot shaft. Measure yours first to be sure how much clearance is needed to remove enough off of the crank!!!

6. If the block requires any machining (cylinders, crank, rods, etc), disassemble the short block to send off to machine shop. Reassemble to short block status once complete with machine work.

7. Shop manual. Need one. Assemble the engine using all of the steps in the manual. Both the three liter with the 2.5 heads and the full three liters with three liter heads need to use the 2.5 FEAD (Front Engine Accessory Drive IIRC). That means use the 2.5 front timing cover, alternator, power steering pump, etc.

8. Follow the shop manual's engine installation proceedure.

9. Go get a 3 liter ECU, 2.5 ECU with a chip, or a fuel/spark controller/s to be able to control the beast you've created.

10. Done

How much did this help anyone out? Not much I'd imagine, but that's all there is to it that differs from an instalation manual... Anyone feel free to kick in any steps I missed other than the implied 800 pound gorrilla needed to pry/stuff the engine in/out the top of the bay. Delete gorrilla if you have a lift and can come out the bottom.