Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Testing Crank Sensor?

It seems alittle unusual that both sensors are bad. When I check continuity I make sure to scrape the prongs alittle bit with a screw driver or something sharp to remove any oxidation that could create a false reading.

Then I use a multimeter set to the continuity tester (diode symbol) and measure. I should get a beep if there is continuity. To double check my readings, I set the meter to ohms and check again. Remember to always start at the highest ohm setting and work your way down.

For example, to check the CKP I set the meter to 20Mohms (or whatever the highest setting is) and check across the prongs. If it reads 1 or OL, then it is open. If it reads 0, then you have to set the meter to the next lowest setting (probably 10 Mohms or whatever) and check again. You should either get a number or 0. If it's still 0, then set to the next lower setting and repeat.

If you finally get to the lowest ohm setting and it's still reading 0, you have a short in the sensor.

An update.
The tips from stuvx showed I was testing incorrectly. Both sensors are ok. I had spark and fuel but the engine would just crank but not start. Smelled the oil dip stick and it seemed to have a strong gas smell. From reading an old thread from Big Jim, he mentioned to hold the gas pedal down to shut off the injectors. The next day after reading this, I was going to do his suggestion, but being a person who never likes to rev an engine to high rpm, when it is cold , I just turn the key, and it started right up like it normally does. The only thing that I have to check is a bad ground (G103) by the power steering reservoir. The bolt is striped out and doesn't tighten down firmly. This ground is for the PCM.