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My 95 GL with Duratech will not idle at all. The car has 121K miles. The engine starts fine, but it will die after about a second. The engine runs fine other than at idle. After the engine stalls out, the CEL, battery, and oil lights are displayed. After restarting the engine and driving away, the dash lights are no longer displayed. If I go to Autozone, do you think a code will be stored? How do I start to diagnose this problem? Any ideas on the likely problem? Thanks in advance.
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Welcome.  4 things come to mind. Water in gas (use HEET or fuel stabilizer), Fuel filter, MAF sensor and IAC valve. Edit. Fuel filter. http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=v6maint&Number=958655&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=186&fpart=1MAF http://www.contour.org/mods/mods.php?s=howto&displayid=36IAC cleaning from Ray's UIM/LIM how to in Duratec Maintenance how to. "Replacing the IAC gasket: (From IAC faq) Over time, the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve becomes sticky due to buildup from the EGR and PCV systems. It can stick partially open such that idle quality is adversely affected, and engine RPM's will not drop below 1500. For a while, blipping the throttle will restore normal idle, but this only works for so long. The fix is to remove the IAC valve by unbolting the two 8mm bolts that hold it on and disconnected the wiring plug. If you are careful enough, replacement of the gasket will not be necessary. The gasket costs less than US $1.00, so it is no tragedy if you destroy it. Once the valve is off, spray it out with some carb/intake cleaner and make sure any gunky residue is gone. Reattach, and you are done. It is a lot cheaper than a new IAC, which runs around US $70. Note: Ford claims the IAC cannot be cleaned, but this is not true in my experience." Ray.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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I cleaned the MAF and checked the IAC. The IAC appears to be engaging properly, so I am slightly reluctant to remove it. I checked the IAC by applying 12V. I heard a click, so I am assuming that it is working correctly. While removing the MAF, I noticed some oil in the air inlet hose right after the MAF. Is this normal?
Any other things to check? The engine is still not idling yet. I guess I will replace the fuel filter next.
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I would replace the PCV valve, and do an IAC cleaning as per instructions. Just because its clicking, does not mean that the plunger is not sticking. A good soaking and cleaning of the IAC often cures most idle problems. Check for any vacume leaks while your in there.
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Originally posted by dan4:
While removing the MAF, I noticed some oil in the air inlet hose right after the MAF. Is this normal?
Do you have an after market airfilter?
If so you may have over oiled it. Clean the MAF.
If you unplug the MAF and start the car it should run, using computer limp mode. If it's the MAF that's bad.
Check the hose that runs from the PCV valve to the emissions valve on the firewall. It's made of plastic and known to break. Car will not idle if it's broken.
1996 2.5LT V6 Contour ATX My Tour+help/info pics
E0 rims, Gutted Pre-Cats,CTA Custom Exhaust & Intake, Diablo Chip.
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Okay, I cleaned the IAC, cleaned the MAF sensor, and replaced the fuel filter, but it is still not idling correctly. I also removed the MAF sensor connector and that didn't help.
I think I have an idea of what might be wrong, but I need a little help. I have a Duratech and there is something out of place. Next to the IAC (just left when looking at the engine from the front) there is black thing which is attached to the air intake manifold with two bolts. A hose from the EGR valve is plumbed to this device. I think it is the EGR solenoid valve. Anyways, it appears that I am missing the cap to this device. My insulation on the hood directly above this device is burned away slighlty. With the cap missing, an air fitting is exposed. If I put my finger on this fitting while someone else is keeping the car idling, it will kill the engine. Something is out of place, and I wonder if this is the root cause of my problem. Can anyone tell me exactly what that part is, and if it is critical to idle performance?
Thanks much.
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Originally posted by dan4:
... Next to the IAC (just left when looking at the engine from the front) there is black thing which is attached to the air intake manifold with two bolts. A hose from the EGR valve is plumbed to this device. I think it is the EGR solenoid valve. Anyways, it appears that I am missing the cap to this device. My insulation on the hood directly above this device is burned away slighlty. With the cap missing, an air fitting is exposed. If I put my finger on this fitting while someone else is keeping the car idling, it will kill the engine. Something is out of place, and I wonder if this is the root cause of my problem. Can anyone tell me exactly what that part is, and if it is critical to idle performance?
Thanks much.
Here is some reading material on the Electronic Voltage Regulator (EVR).
http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/egrsensors.htm
And how to remove and reinstall.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/ca/1e/0900823d801bca1e.jsp
BTW, were there any CEL codes?
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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As an additional task you might want to clean all grounding wire terminals in the engine compartment especially the one that comes from the engine computer on the right hand side at the back. Even if they look clean, slight corrosion can cause the computer not to read the sensor inputs correctly.
I had this problem and even when I cleaned the IAC the engine would stall out during idling or cut out momentarily at speed as though the ignition were being turned off for a millsecond. Cleaning the grounding terminals would be good preventive maintenance.
This 'little' issue can cause all kinds of problems from performance to reliability.
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