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Scenario: After driving around for a bit the engine is up to temperature, I see a light turn red and shift into neutral and begin to slow down. As the tach drops it hesitates around 1000rpm (idle) and then starts to dip below and usually if I don't give it a bit of gas it will slowly drop down and stall as I'm sitting at the light. The problem seems to be worse when the car is warm but it happens pretty consistently besides that the engine runs smooth (and quick to:D!)
I�ve read pretty much every post regarding stalling and the IAC seems to be the problem for most people. So I Replaced the IAC, still the exact same thing. Also with my 3L swap I installed a new FMC (I�m pretty sure that�s what it�s called, it�s the black plastic thing attached to the UIM that has all the vacuum line junctions.) I�ve inspected the area and it looks like all the vacuum lines are attached and in decent condition. Is there a way I can hook up a tool to test the vacuum system for leaks? Or is there anything else that could be causing the problem?
98.5 Black contour // A.K.A. Frankenstein
3L Oval port swap W P&P // SVT UIM, LIM, & Cams
Torsen LSD // Dual Friction // KKM // Poly Mounts // ?Mystery Mod? // Actually Running!
205 hp @ 6500RPM 180 tq @ 4250RPM
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I'm getting a similar problem... The idle problem is worse when the car has reached its normal temp.
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Sounds like it could be a vacum leak. If your getting any misfire CEL's I would say to check fuel pressure as that's how my pump acted when it died.
1996 2.5LT V6 Contour ATX My Tour+help/info pics
E0 rims, Gutted Pre-Cats,CTA Custom Exhaust & Intake, Diablo Chip.
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Originally posted by SVTake2: ...I installed a new FMC (I�m pretty sure that�s what it�s called, it�s the black plastic thing attached to the UIM that has all the vacuum line junctions.) I�ve inspected the area and it looks like all the vacuum lines are attached and in decent condition. Is there a way I can hook up a tool to test the vacuum system for leaks? Or is there anything else that could be causing the problem?
That might be IMRC rather than FMC.
To check for vacuum leaks, you might want to spray carb cleaner at hose and gasket areas per Spazz.
"Figured it out. I sprayed Carb cleaner around the UIM gasket and sure enough the engine would rev when I hit one spot. So it turns out the gasket that Ford gave me was faulty or perhaps when I set it just a little bit off, but I'm gald I got that taken care of."
Last edited by Tony2005; 10/05/05 06:55 PM.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Originally posted by chongo: Sounds like it could be a vacum leak. If your getting any misfire CEL's I would say to check fuel pressure as that's how my pump acted when it died.
Uh oh... I've had two flashing CEL's. It would only flash about 5 times and then stop though. Anyway, I have these two CEL's too... Here
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Rawbutt,
So, did you clean the MAF, clean the O2 sensor connections or replace the O2 sensor?
Last edited by Tony2005; 10/05/05 07:40 PM.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Originally posted by chongo: Sounds like it could be a vacum leak. If your getting any misfire CEL's I would say to check fuel pressure as that's how my pump acted when it died.
I did have a misfire code a long time ago, but new plug wires seemed to fix that right up.
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That might be IMRC rather than FMC.
Thats the Abbreviation i was looking for. IMRC was replaced not FMC.
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So, did you clean the MAF, clean the sensor connections or replace the sensor?
I didn't do anything special with the MAF, I will pull it out and see how it looks.
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To check for vacuum leaks, you might want to spray carb cleaner at hose and gasket areas per Spazz.
"Figured it out. I sprayed Carb cleaner around the UIM gasket and sure enough the engine would rev when I hit one spot. So it turns out the gasket that Ford gave me was faulty or perhaps when I set it just a little bit off, but I'm gald I got that taken care of."
Im not sure what this means exactly. Does spraying the carb cleaner around those areas bubble up to show where a vacuum leak might be? I would think because its vacuum it wouldn't blow any bubbles (i use soapy water to check for air leaks)
98.5 Black contour // A.K.A. Frankenstein
3L Oval port swap W P&P // SVT UIM, LIM, & Cams
Torsen LSD // Dual Friction // KKM // Poly Mounts // ?Mystery Mod? // Actually Running!
205 hp @ 6500RPM 180 tq @ 4250RPM
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Posts: 5,345
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Originally posted by Tony2005: " I sprayed Carb cleaner around the UIM gasket and sure enough the engine would rev when I hit one spot. "
It is a negative vacuum leak that we are trying to determine, it will suck in the carb cleaner and the engine will revv higher. When it revs higher where you spray, that is the location of the vacuum leak.
The soap water method is good for positive air leaks, like tires and positive crankcase vacuum breather tubes.
Last edited by Tony2005; 10/05/05 07:41 PM.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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