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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 86
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I recently changed my trans fluid on my 2000 SVT( I think).
I am concerned I may not have put in the right fluid.
I got a little confused with the how-to and am still unsure if I changed the right thing and if I even put the right fluid in. Sorry I'm new to this!
I drained the fluid out of what I believe is the tranny and it was reddish in color. I then replaced the fluid with Mobil 1 fully synthetic gear lubricant(This is what the How-To stated). The Mobil 1 is honey colored and it required me to use a pump to get it in there(I used about three bottles). While at the auto parts store the parts guy said I should be using the MTX fluid to replace this(this would make sense in that this is what I drained). I went ahead and changed the fluid with the Mobil 1 dispite his input.
The How-To stated I would notice a difference in shifting feel after replacement but I haven't experienced this.
Did I replace this correctly? If not, what should I use to get this gear oil out and replaced?
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 540
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 540 |
This forum should help 
'98 SVT Red/midnight blue - a few mods
E0 wheels for sale - PM me
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,570
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Dec 2001
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Current ford spec calls for a special formula called "Ford Honey". Do a search for the correct part number. No FM additive should be used.
If you want aftermarket fluid, the Royal Purple Synchromax is probalby the only product that adheres to the Ford Honey specification.
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 351
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 351 |
I replaced mine with the Ford "honey" fluid last Thursday. You can get it at a dealership, ask for part number XT-M5-QS. Be prepared to pay $20 per quart, unless you know someone there who can get it for $15. You'll need 3 quarts, though it may only hold a little more than 2.5 quarts.
I did notice smoother shifting immediately following the change, however, it has stiffened up a bit since then.
If you aren't a real aggressive driver then I wouldn't worry about about using the Mobile 1 synthetic.
Black 2000 SVT Contour w/ Prairie Tan
MSDS Headers | Magnaflow | Mirko Splitter | Fidanza Short Throw Shifter | Kenwood KVT-815 LCD/DVD
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 86
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CEG\'er
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That forum just made me more confused!
Anyways, thanks for the responses. I'm not exactly the Sunday driver so I just might go ahead and replace the fluid with the Ford "honey".
This kind of goes with this thread. Is it a complete pain in the a$$ for someone without a lift to get in there and disassemble the differential?
Can an average do it yourselfer tackle this?
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,100
Addicted CEG\'er
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Originally posted by SCSVT:
and disassemble the differential?
????
a tranny drain-fill??
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Joined: Jun 2005
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Sorry- I'm not sure where that came from.
I was just wanting to know how difficult it would be to get the tranny open in case I ever needed to.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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Addicted CEG\'er
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Ahh.
Engine/Tranny out through the top in one piece... (FAR SIMPLER!!!)
Tranny out the bottom by itself... (remove subframe, etc, etc) (harder, but DOABLE IF you have experience)
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Mobil 1, or ANY GL-5 gear oil is not safe for the syncros or brass bits. Drain it immediately.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Joined: Dec 2001
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Originally posted by SCSVT:
Sorry- I'm not sure where that came from.
I was just wanting to know how difficult it would be to get the tranny open in case I ever needed to.
To get to anything inside the tranny (differential, synchros, etc) requires removal of the trans from the vehicle. Which means either pulling the engine, or dropping the subframe and pulling it out the side. Either way, its LOTS of work and expensive if you have to pay a shop to do it (~8hrs labor at some places)
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