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OP
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97 contour 2.0L zetec
had a blown head gasket putting back toghether need help with timing belt install.
there are 3 marks on the pulley of the crankshaft. do i allign the middle one to the metal pointer thing?
and when the crank is alligned right the 1st clyinder piston will be all the way up (as seen through the spark plug hole)? if its alligned and the clinder isnt all the way up do i turn it another 360?
and are the camshaft pulley marks supposed to be alligned to each other? (. .)
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"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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im mainly concerened about the three marks on the crank pully. not sure which to allign
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ok i kindof remember aligning the key piece thats under the crankshaft pulley with the marker thats attached to the oil pan. if that made sence and you know what im talking about, is that correct?
if its aligned is it in top dead center? or does the crank shaft take two revolutions?
hope this made some sence
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When the crankshaft pulley is lined up, the 1 and 4 pistons could be either at TDC or at BDC, I believe. You have to check whether you feel compression through the spark plug hole as it approaches the timing mark.
As for which mark, I remember there is a picture of the crank pulley in the Haynes manual that shows, "use this mark, don't use these other two marks" but don't remember offhand which is which. I can check tonight if you are still lacking that info.
'95 Contour GL, Zetec/ATX
Repairs: * wheel bearings * sway bar stop * CV joint * alternator * shift interlock * heater tube * VSS * tensioner * ingition coil * wire harnesses * ball joint *
Why do I still love it?
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pang your post was helpful, very helpful. the crankshaft info would be appreciated also. id go buy a Haynes manual but my car is all taken apart.
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OK, I'll try to explain what I see in the manual but I don't have a scanner to post the pictures.
The marks are NOT the large circles facing you that look like drill points. I say that because there are 3 of those in this picture, and you said you saw three marks.
The marks are notches cut in the edge of the pulley. According to the manual there are two pairs of notches. Each pair is one on the outer rim and one on the inner rim.
The pairs of notches are about 10 degrees apart it looks like. OK, imagine you are turning the crankshaft clockwise, then the mark you want is the second one (last one) to pass the mark on the oilpan.
It aligns with a raised rib on the oilpan that is located at about the 5-o-clock position as you are looking at the engine, standing on the pulley side.
Good luck!
PANGLOSS
'95 Contour GL, Zetec/ATX
Repairs: * wheel bearings * sway bar stop * CV joint * alternator * shift interlock * heater tube * VSS * tensioner * ingition coil * wire harnesses * ball joint *
Why do I still love it?
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 65
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Also:
To align the camshafts, you need to take the valve cover off. At the end of each camshaft is a slot. The slots of both camshafts should line up horizontally so that you can slip a long piece of metal (I used 2 or 3 stacked hacksaw blades) into both slots at the same time. That means the slots also need to be ABOVE THE CYLINDER HEAD. They are off-center, so if they lie below the top surface of the cylinder head, rotate them 180 degrees and they should come up.
Keep the camshafts aligned with your hacksaw blade while the crankshaft is aligned as I described above. Then put your timing belt on and if necessary take the slack out between the crankshaft pulley and camshaft by loosening the cam pulleys and rotating them counterclockwise while making sure the camshafts themselves stay aligned by the hacksaws. Any slack should be on the side with the tensioner so it can be taken up by the spring.
Good luck again.
'95 Contour GL, Zetec/ATX
Repairs: * wheel bearings * sway bar stop * CV joint * alternator * shift interlock * heater tube * VSS * tensioner * ingition coil * wire harnesses * ball joint *
Why do I still love it?
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 65
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I realized I didn't say this exactly right: Originally posted by pangloss:
Also:
... if necessary take the slack out between the crankshaft pulley and camshaft by loosening the cam pulleys and rotating them counterclockwise while making sure the camshafts themselves stay aligned by the hacksaws. Any slack should be on the side with the tensioner so it can be taken up by the spring....
If you need to loosen the cam pulleys, you need to use some kind of tool to hold the pulleys while you loosen the bolts. There is a Ford tool available and Haynes describes how to fabricate one from a couple strips of steel and some bolts. Don't just use the hacksaw blades in the slots to keep them from turning.
I was assuming you would know that since you had torn the engine down to the head gasket but for the general record I wanted to make sure it doesn't look like I'm giving slipshod advice 
'95 Contour GL, Zetec/ATX
Repairs: * wheel bearings * sway bar stop * CV joint * alternator * shift interlock * heater tube * VSS * tensioner * ingition coil * wire harnesses * ball joint *
Why do I still love it?
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Posts: 5,345
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Originally posted by jd28:
..You never, ever want to use the locking tool to hold the cams (or any fab locking tool) while loosening the cam gear bolts. You can do damage to the end of the cam that the locking tool is installed into, gasket matting surface and the tool itself.
The best method is get the [SPX] OTC 6486 2.0L Zetec Engine SET for 25 dollars. And get a total timing belt kit for 120 dollars that comes with belt, tension, and rollers. Tq everything to specs, follow GATES instructions to the "T" which states to loosen cam gears. 98 and up have spots for a wrench to hold the cams, anything before you need a tool to hold the gear itself.
.....
JD
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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