Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Power Drain on Battery - Can Not Locate

I have a 1995 Ford Contour 2.5L GL. Each morning the battery is dead when I go to start the car. Took the battery in to have it charged and load tested and they said the battery checks out fine.

Can someone suggest how I would go about checking for what is draining the battery?

I do notice that my chimes does turn on when I open the door. The key is not in the ignition. If I close the door they do go off. I cleaned the switch and ground and that is fine. Normally the chimes will not turn on unless I have the lights on or the key in the ignition, etc. This may be part of the problem.....

Thanks,
Bob

The thing I can think of is when the headlights are on, and the door is open, the chimes come on too (without the key in the ignition). Maybe it is the wiring for the headlights (rear lights) system.

Edit. Just read something from another forum. Turn the interior lights all the way to off (on the knob). If that doesn't drain the battery the next morning, then you can know it is related to the interior lights. If it still drains the battery, then it is related to the exterior lights. Good luck.

Ever had the wiring recall done - it's ugly but it's worth it to get rid of problems.
Since the chimes are going off I wonder if the ignition relay is being picked? Or the switch the key makes and breaks is stuck closed?

I can pull the fuse for the courtesy lights and that stops the chiming, etc. I can see with this fuse out if I have a problem.

I found another problem though. I can't seem to turn the iginition off to pull the key out. There is a solonoid plunger that is preventing the key from rotating to the off position. If I unplug this solonoid on the column I can then turn the ignition off...

I just replace the ignition switch and still have the same problem.

I have had the wiring recall done and my wiring that I can see is in excellent shape.


Bob

one person i know had this happen.check the sun visor and make sure the damn vanity light is off.i know its a longshot,but what the hell.......good luck

Well I found the problem. Actually had two problems. The first problem with the key not being able to remove it was due to the shift park interlock soloniod. The shifter would not be completely in park and this would not allow the key to be removed. readjusted the sensor on the shift handle and this solved the problem.

The other problem was due to central timer unit. Sometimes the lights would go out and sometimes they would not. Performed the following test on the central timer unit and it failed. I have removed the "black box" until I get another from Bill Jenkins.

Testing this unit is as follows:

Testing and Inspection

INPUT TEST


Enter vehicle, latch safety belt, and close door.
Press and hold rear defroster switch.
Turn ignition switch to RUN, then release rear defroster switch.
The central timer module will actuate the chime each time one of the following inputs is actuated:
Driver's safety belt: unlatch, then relatch.
Illuminated entry actuator switch: lift and release outside door handle without opening door.
Rear window defroster switch: press, then release.
OUTPUT TEST


Enter vehicle, then press and hold rear window defroster switch.
Turn ignition switch to RUN.
Release rear window defroster switch.
Move windshield wiper switch to intermittent position, first detent position up from OFF.
Depress and release defroster switch to actuate outputs.
Depress and release defroster switch to deactivate outputs.
Outputs will activate in the following order:
Intermittent windshield wiper.
Rear window defroster indicator.
Interior lamps.
Safety belt warning indicator


Regards,
Bob

a dandy test to have available.

For posterity's sake: (search terms)

TEST, TESTING, CENTRAL TIMER UNIT, CTU, LIGHTS, DELAY, CHIME, CHIMES, DING, DEAD BATTERY, WONT, WON'T START.

Ray

Well, received the new timer from Bill and installed it. Everything is working great.

Bob