Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Performance 3.0 and JB Weld?

There has to be a better way! Just imagine if the JB slug pops out ... I hate to even think about that

DanG and I have come to the conclusion that welding the passages shut and redecking is the only 100% reliable way of doing this. Now, compression is already extremely high with the SVT heads, so when you redeck, you will more than likely increase compression by at least '.1'. Alternative to pistons would be thicker head gasket, which doesn't exist. So, if you go this route, a good set of dished pistons are in order. Now you can really start to play around with compression for future boost applications. At this point, Cost start to climb, but I would rather pay more now than later when the JB Weld comes loose.

What are your thoughts?

JB weld where????

From DavidZ's FAQ: "The 3L block has larger bores to accomodate the larger pistons, it also has two extra oil return lines and one extra oil delivery line. Also there are a few extra water delivery holes ... Also some of the oil and water return holes on the 2.5 L head will not align correctly with the 3L gasket and has to be "port matched"."

I'd stick with 'matching' 3.0 heads on a 3.0 block.I smell steam pockets and lube problems guys!

2500 miles and counting, no problems. The block openings need to be hit with a die grinder or dremmel to let the cold weld get a grip, the high pressure oil feed is drilled and tapped for an allen plug, which for safety, is also held in place by cold weld. Since the two return passages are on the outer edge, away from the extreem combustion heat and water passages, there's not much to worry about. The 2.5 heads don't have the extra return passage and don't even overlap the passages, meaning you can still see it on a fully assembled engine. If it were to leak, I could notice it and repair it without removing anything from the engine. The only steam ports that need to be modified are the steam holes that need to be gasket matched with the 2.5 heads for proper alignment, not a big deal.

The 3 liter heads would be great with SVT cams... I'd like to see what it would do with the bigger valves...

Does this mean, if you own an SVT and want to do the 3.0:

From the 3.0:
1. Block
2. Heads
3. Lower Intake

From the 2.5 HO:
1. Upper Intake
2. Cams

and by doing this, you negate the need for any port matching?

Yup. The 3 liter lower has to be modified to work with the 2.5 upper though.

That is awesome! What kind of modification are you talking about? Fabrication? Or Fitment?

Thanks Man!

I don't have any direct experience w/ the 3L swap. But from reading the posts in the past, and looking at the Taurus engine, it looks like you have to use the 2.5L heads because of the waterpump. On the taurus, the waterpump appears to be in the conventional location. No room to put there on the contour, so it was moved to the back of the head, driven by the cam. 3L heads would mean no waterpump. (which would solve the cracking waterpump problem... :rolleyes: )

Like I said, all above w/o any direct expereince. Those who do feel free to correct me.

Richard

2001 3.0 Taurus has the WAPU in same position as 2.5,driven off the cam!