Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Suspension Suspension specs needed, please help... thank you!

I have a 98.5 SE 2.5L MTX. I have 106k on my car right now and need new struts/shocks. I found a full set of used SVT struts/shocks/springs for almost free locally off of a SVT car that has about 35-40k. Last night I had some time and decided to work on it a little, changed out the front pas. side and noticed that the spring that I took out of my car had the same exact green tag with the same exact part number as the SVT spring I was installing. After talking to a friend that is knowledgable on Contour's, he said that 98+ V6 MTX cars have SVT springs and that the difference is only the front struts.

I have driven his car and there is noticibly less body roll in his than mine, and now that I think of it, our ride height is almost identical... about 1/4" different, but that's probibly simply tires. So here I am now, I already have "SVT" springs at all 4 corners, I still DO NEED to change the struts/shocks out, so I will continue to do so, but WHAT exactly is the difference between my car and the SVT suspension-wise?

I don't know if this has been covered before or not, but I searched and did not come up with anything. All I need to know is on my 98.5 SE 2.5L MTX Contour, what is the difference in suspension from an SVT? I do NOT have the sport model, so that may even be different than mine as well. I want less body roll, but am not that interested in lowering the car any, so springs are out of the question for now... just need to know if it's the sway bars or what that is the difference between my car and a SVT. Thank you!

Do you have 15" wheels to his 16"? That can make a huger difference in perceived roll and handling, especially if he has much stiffer sidewall tires. Also, he has a stiffer rear swaybar and softer front. Body roll should be similar, but the car will feel flatter. A good alignment can have the same effect, making the tires bite better and giving the car a stiffer, "flatter" feel. New vs. old struts can affect the rate of roll, again with similar effect on percieved roll. If you want to dramatically improve your handling, I'd get the 21mm rear swaybar from BAT. Your car will feel much flatter and crisper in the corners. 16" or 17" wheels is the next step, or even just better 15" rubber (assuming you're on stockers). Although, if you need struts, getting the BAT kit makes a lot of sense - very little drop and a huge increase in response. And new BAT struts will last longer than the used SVT versions. But, if you are just going for less $$, put on the used SVT struts and pick up a BAT swaybar, then get it aligned. I think you'll agree the result is at least as good as your friend's SVT, even if not a whole step up like the BAT kit.

Thank you Auto-X Fil. Yeah, I used to have the stock 15" wheels, LOTS of sidewall which contributed to body roll like you wouldn't beleive, but now I am running on his OE SVT wheels from his 99... he has Focus SVT 17" wheels now. Honestly, maybe his car doesn't handle any different now, I guess I just always assumed that it did, but it could also be how he drives vs. how I do, wheels (last time I was in his car vs. mine, I did have my 15" on mine). Anyway, the car does understeer like crazy, so I was going to start looking for a stiffer rear swaybar anyway. I am going to go with the BFG KDW II for new tires next summer which will make the car feel a ton better I'm sure as well.

I searched in more detail again after posting the first time (yeah I know, leave me alone )and found that bassicaly it looks like all 4 springs are identical, front struts may be different, rear sway bar is the same, my front swaybar is stiffer. That is the info I have found so far. That would explain why I feel the car understeering so much through corners... it's even worse than a regular SVT

Anyway, I would love to put a stiffer rate spring in it, but I am not interested in lowering the car at all since it is my daily driver and sees all 4 seasons in MI. I was hoping for more options for swaybars, but it looks like the front swaybar is going to have to remain the same... but the BAT rear is a nice match for the front, so I guess that's what I will have to do.

Sorry for the novel of a response, thank you for your reply, I appreciate the input.

All in all PLEASE Correct me if I am wrong... my Contour... 98.5 SE 2.5 MTX (Non-Sport) has:

Front:
SVT Springs
Standard V6 Struts
20mm SwayBar (1mm Thicker than SVT SwayBar)

Rear:
SVT Springs
SVT Struts
18mm SwayBar (SVT SwayBar)

With my new (used, but very low milage and great condition) springs/struts out of a SVT... if I change the other front strut (to match the one I changed yesterday) and rear struts (only due to milage and wear), I effectively have "SVT Suspension". Combined with the BAT SwayBar and new tires on my 99' SVT wheels, should be a nice setup.

Tire size... what will fit on the 99'SVT wheels? I was thinking of getting a 225/45/16 of the BFG KDW-II's. Could I fit a 235, or would that be too wide? Thanx again!

go 225/45R16. KDW-2s are great. BTW - my car sees 4 seasons in northeast PA, including a lot of very poorly maintained dirt roads. I have Ground Controls and forsee no problems this winter. It's all about what ride you can live with. BAT would work just fine for MI, year-round. I'm only dropped 1", and run 185/70R14 on steelies in the winter, too. Offtopic: That much soft sidewall on a super-stiff spring feels really weird. When carving back roads with them, they move much more than the suspension, and the amount of tread squirm, lateral sidewall flex and vetical tire deflection transmitted to the driver is incredible. I had no idea how horrible those tires were for handling until I tried them with the GCs. Back on topic, you are correct in that you should have the stiffer rear swaybar - my mistake there. I was thinking that was only for the S port, but you may have it. Either way, the 21mm is the way to go. The tires will make a nice difference in grip and response, and the bar will stiffen up the handling. Also, if you haven't gotten new LCAs, you need them. Those will make a big difference, because with 100k, the bushings are probably about gone. Ball joints are probably loose too.

That could by why I have such bad, and strange tire wear up front too... I drive it hard, but damn, I have some interesting tire wear. New LCA's in the rear? One rear LCA (the thin crappy one) was replaced 2 years ago... as far as the rest, stock, 106k. Yeah, I know that 1" would still be fine, but I don't need to be dumping that kind of money into this car... like I said, this is my daily driver, I LOVE the car and have made a fair share of mod's to it because I can't seem to leave anything alone ;-) but I have a Mustang that I have setup as my all out race car. I sometimes confuse this one as that as well and will get carried away with it if I am not careful, so that's why I just got that suspension set for almost nothing... wish that I knew that I already had bassicaly the same thing though, but that's okay. Thanx again for the help, I really appreciate it.

The 98.5 and newer SVT has stiffer front struts. They were revalved to provide less lift on acceleration and less dive on braking. It is a worthy upgrade, although not nearly as thorough as BAT, Bilstein, or others.

I replace my original struts and springs on my early 98 SVT at about 180,000 miles with a much younger set off from a 99 SVT when I installed front camber kits. All of the springs were the same and the rear struts were the same. The additional front stiffness is noticable but far from objectionable.

I also think that a stiffer rear sway bar would be beneficial, but do some research on what you may need to do to beef up the rear sub frame so that the stiffer bar doesn't pull out the sway bar mounts.

Tire wise, I have Dayton Daytona ZR 225/50R16 on it. They are the best tire I have had on the car. Much better than the BF Goodrich KDWS. The Dayton Daytona is still available, but many tire shops are replacing it with Fuzion. Both are Bridgestone brands. I have 55,000 miles on the Daytona's and it looks like I will get at least another 5,000 on them. I'm not gentle on tires. I don't know yet if I will replace them with Daytona's that I need to special order or if I will go with the Fuzions that are getting exceptional reviews.

You don't have room for anything larger than 225/50R16. The fit is very close but adequate. On the rear the tire sidewall is whisker close to both the strut body and the trailing arm.

Thanx Jim. Yeah, the 225/50 and 225/40's are just about the same as far as being off a touch from the 215/50's but that doesn't matter too much to me... it's probibly better for it to say a touch faster than slower for me Yeah, the last set of tires on that car lasted 10k, before that, I was able to squeeze 18k out of a set almost on the cords. Hoping with the siffer struts (and struts that aren't worn out), swaybar, and the new slightly lower profile tires, I may be able to get a little more life out of the tires I have my stock 15's for my winter tires, so I can dump the all seasons and get real tires for the summer. I too think that the BAT rear swaybar will be a really nice improvement for my car... I will look into the rear subframe too, thank you.