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Alright i have my MTX-75 sitting on a bench, and the T/o bearing seal was the sorce of the leak. I am not sure that the clutch (specII) got wet. Should i spray brake clean on the flywheel, clutch disk and pressure plate just to be sure?
Also which way does the rasied part of the clutch point? toward or away from the engine?
Lastly how much friction modifier should i use?
98 SVT
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Was the T/O bearing seal bad, or was sealant not applied during initial assembly?
If you're in doubt about the cleanliness of the friction components, it wouldn't hurt to clean them. Hopefully you got lucky and nothing splashed onto them.
I believe the clutch should have a label (or imprint) showing which side faces what -- just look closely at it. I haven't taken my SPEC 1 out of the shrink wrap yet to take a close look at it.
If using regular Synthetic ATF, you should add TWO OUNCES of Ford's friction modifier. If you're using something like Redline MTL, then it already has the stuff in it.
1996 Ford Contour SE (Mine): V-6 MTX/DMD/MSDS/K&N3530/Torsen/Spec-1/Split-Exhaust/Walbro/Syncromax..119K
2003 GMC Yukon XL SLT (Hers): 285HP/Stock..93K
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Kevlar and oil of any kind is a major no-no! If it did get any on it, it will glaze over and not bite at all. It'd be a good idea to swab down the PP and FW with brakekleen.
The hub faces the Pressure plate and not the Flywheel.
2 oz. IIRC
2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone 
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Yea the T/o bearings seal looked torn and some o ring holding the seal to the input shaft was broken. So i bought a OEM spec instead of the one used in the spec II. This didnt happen over night it took a little while so i think its just a cheat throwout bearing
But does any one know if spraying brake cleaner on a clutch disc fritcion matrial is ok?
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Originally posted by Swazo:
Kevlar and oil of any kind is a major no-no! If it did get any on it, it will glaze over and not bite at all. It'd be a good idea to swab down the PP and FW with brakekleen.
The hub faces the Pressure plate and not the Flywheel.
2 oz. IIRC
How do i tell if it glazed over, what do i look for?
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It will harden and look cooked if it stayed in the car very long. But if you weren't able to drive it much after the leak, you might not have been able to cook it and it will glaze once it has some use if it did get any oil on it. 
2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone
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Well ive replaced halfshafts, sycros,and the differential im kind of broke now. (Im very good at flat rate removing the trans in 4.5 hr's on my 4 post lift  ) And its been down Since july 9 fixed on the 23rd and taken apart again on the 27th.
I want to drive my car again
What im thinking is that once i opened the bellhousing the only fluid Was in a little puddle under the T/O bearing. The Clutch face looked clean and dry so ill just hope for the best.
Thanks for the advice
P.S You think you could smell ATF on the clutch disc?
Last edited by CSVT98driver; 09/01/05 03:12 AM.
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I would think so, I always think of major badassed breath when I smell ATF 
Also, I have had the engine and trans seperated in the engine bay and have also heard of Arizona Dyno Chip actually replacing the TOB in-car..... so if the clutch cooks you could replace it fairly easy.
Last edited by Swazo; 09/01/05 03:30 AM.
2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone
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Originally posted by CSVT98driver:
Yea the T/o bearings seal looked torn and some o ring holding the seal to the input shaft was broken. So i bought a OEM spec instead of the one used in the spec II. This didnt happen over night it took a little while so i think its just a cheat throwout bearing
But does any one know if spraying brake cleaner on a clutch disc fritcion matrial is ok?
Umm NO. If you bolted the TO bearing down then it shouldn't move. A tear would have to be created when you inserted it onto the input shaft, OR it was already there. Either way the bad is on you for either not inspecting it and putting it on that way or for putting it on improperly. The lip of th seal should have been lubricated and if not use a bit of vaseline on it before you install it on the shaft. Throw some on the shaft if you have to, never install a dry seal on a dry shaft!
The O-ring seal could have broke when it was torqued, especially if you did uneven torquing or if you didn't use something to stick the o-ring in place like grease or RTV and it moved on you.
So I wouldn't blame the TO bearing. I have been using my spec one for two years and installed it 3 times, pulled it twice. It hasn't leaked and it sealed each time. I still have my factory TO bearing which works for comparison purposes. There is nothing wrong with the spec TO bearing. A little RTV won't hurt a bit since the o-ring is the primary seal and it might be the added insurance you need when you install your new one.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
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Ok, so if it is my fault i need to know what i did wrong the first time.
So i need to lub the shaft/seal, thats probubly the main reason.
Is there a torque spec for the T/o bearing bolts? I have a in-pound torque wrench.
Lastly can the main trans seal be replaced from the outside or does the trans need to be taken apart?
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