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bmclaws Offline OP
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Ok, I've got the grommet out, the locking ring off, hoses and wires disconnected from the lid, and the lid off to one side.

So how do I get the fuel pump/level indicator assembly out of the tank? I've tried pulling on it every which way and it won't budge.

On a related note: anyone have a 2000 DOHC V-6 that loses power, etc under load when the tank is less than 1/2 full? I've replaced the filter several times but it really hasn't helped.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

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Captain Impound Boy
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Theres a HOW TOO some where...

I just did it on my GF's car rather simple..

You need some Tin snips!

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Originally posted by bmclaws:
On a related note: anyone have a 2000 DOHC V-6 that loses power, etc under load when the tank is less than 1/2 full? I've replaced the filter several times but it really hasn't helped.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.




I had that problem about 6 months after I bought the car (new), I read on here about certain similar symptoms and told the dealership to change my pump, they kept delaying and doing other stuff and it wasnt working, so finally they did change the pump and I never had that issue after that. So I would do exactly what you are doing now and change the pump. Just my .02. =)

-Ken


'00 svt #1485/2150 Precision SC6152E .63 a/r, PnP Heads, TiAL 38mm Wastegate, Blitz BOV, HKS EBC, and HKS TT, Koni's Front/Rear, 19" Centerline RPMs, SPEC Stage 5 Clutch and Flywheel, DMD, Intrax, LoTek w/ Water Temp, Oil Press., EGT, Boost Gauge
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Originally posted by bmclaws:
So how do I get the fuel pump/level indicator assembly out of the tank? ....Any advice would be greatly appreciated.




Welcome.
Returnless Fuel Pump
http://www.contour.org/mods/mods.php?s=howto&displayid=39


"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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bmclaws, I am having the same problem. When my car gets under 1/4 tank my car will sometimes stall on me. What did you do to solve the problem?

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rotate the canister anti-clockwise and it'll pop out of it's seat in the tank


2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi #1 for Bendix Brakes Kits! Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55 AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70 Gutted pre-cats $80/set A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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I just recently replace the fuel pump in my 2000 Sport. If you are using a used pump to replace the busted one, you are on easy street. Drop it in and lock the pump in. I went to the dealership and got a new replacement and the design is different from the original one in the car. The plastic locking ring has to be removed to accomodate the new style pump. There is a special tool to cut the rubber tabs which secure the pump to the floor of the tank. Unfortunately this is a dealer only tool. Hopefully you have a nice dealership near by that will let you borrow one. If not a razor blade works but it took me a while to figure out exactly where to cut/how the tabs held on to the ring. If needed, I can email a diagram (doodle) of where I cut so as to save you some trouble. Good luck.

Clyde

P.S. I forgot to say I tried cutting the plastic ring with tin snips but the plastic was too brittle. The little bit I cut off shattered in a million pieces.

Last edited by wunderkeen; 09/02/05 01:27 AM.
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i had the same problem on my 2000 se and it took the pump out and removed the sock on it and now it runs great.


2000 contour V6 ATX BAT suspension kit, k&n filter, SVT TB, SVT UIM, SVT LIM, MSDS headers, MSDS Y-pipe, SVT dual exhaust, Custum burned ADC chip, 7000k HID's, 200 amp HO alt, custom gauges, and 17" rims

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