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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 103
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 103 |
Originally posted by MLJ471:
I had this same problem on my '96 mistake, just wanted to say thanks to everyone that put in their input!
But while I was reading the threads no one followed up that I could fine, so wanted to kinda follow up 
I had this problem for months, inspection due this month so finally decided I should take care of it . It was diag'ed eariler by the dealer when it was in for something else, they told me the MFS shorted out / burned, so that and a relay needed to be replaced, wanted a bit over $300 to fix it.
I bought a used MFS from a JY for $65 but that still didnt work (thought it was the MFS, based on what I read here and what the dealer told me and you could see on one of the male connections on the MFS, it had burnt looking marks all around it) I dont remember who it was, but in one of these "brake light" threads someone posted a pic of the MFS with an arrow pointing to the wire that went into the connector. Well that got me thinking and I looked inside that connector (the smaller connector, there are 2 that hook to the MFS) and there were 4 female type connections, well 2 of them were to far apart to make connection to the male connection on the MFS when it was plugged in. So I just took something small and pushed the female connections back together and after that I had all 3 brake lights working again 
A suggestion: This problem will be recurring unless you make a more permanent fix. I pared off a couple of narrow(ish) wedge-shaped slivers from a nylon tie rap and wedged them in to the connector on each side of the metal conductor which was spreading apart. I cut off the excess and put everything together and I've had no problem in several months, since when you put the connector back into the MFS it holds everything tightly together.
/Eric
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
'96 Mystique GS, ATX
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4
Newbie
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Newbie
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4 |
Originally posted by Mystic:
A suggestion: This problem will be recurring unless you make a more permanent fix. I pared off a couple of narrow(ish) wedge-shaped slivers from a nylon tie rap and wedged them in to the connector on each side of the metal conductor which was spreading apart. I cut off the excess and put everything together and I've had no problem in several months, since when you put the connector back into the MFS it holds everything tightly together.
/Eric
Thanks for the welcome and tip. Had a similiar problem with the window connectors also that connect to the master window switch, one of my back windows didn't work due to the female connection.
Also since we are on suggestions, to any "noob" out there like myself , if you have a "U-Wrench It" (depends on the area, called U-Pull it also) junk yard place near by. Check it out first before any local JY! The MFS I bought for $65 from a local JY, could have gotten their for $15 (doh!), had to buy a master window switch also.. that was $12. Was my first time in one of those places, felt good to save money!
But there is always something!  Thought I had everything ok to pass inspection, but it failed today due to a back strut being blown. Knew it needed to be replaced, but didnt know it was that bad. Luckily sears has a strut sale going on and 30% off labor, a little bit over $300 for replacing the back 2 and alignment. Will learn how to do those one day 
Last edited by MLJ471; 09/17/05 03:00 AM.
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