Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Performance ported and polished heads

To my knowledge, SHO Shop was running 11.1 CR with the 2.5 SVT heads. Not sure if they were worked over or not...

Where is Dave Z when you need him?

John

Running the stock or SVT 2.5 heads on the 3 liter works out to be ~11.2:1 Reworking the edges of the bowl area to remove the sharp edge as well as smoothing ou any casting flash may take you closer to 11:1. David Z is getting the better of both worlds running the race heads from Reinki (SP?) with 3 liter valves and full race ports on the heads. After talking to Chris R about the heads, IIRC he had said very little bowl work was done other than smoothing and slightly unshrouding the valves after installing steel seats ($$$) due to the lack of material between the valves.

For boosted 3 liters, stick with the stock 3 liter '00 SES style heads for mild boost applications. Larger valves, larger cc bowl, larger ports all work for high end HP. BTW, any measurements difference between the 2.5 and 3 liter blocks have been false. The blocks themselves are the same size, only the front timing cover is thicker on the 3 liters. You use the 2.5 front cover, viola, SC 3 liter...

Mazda says "Zoom Zoom"
SC 3.0 with 2.5 heads says "Ping Ping"

Hey Brad, THe block is a different casting though-right?. I have a brand new 2001 3.0L block I am building and there are a number of differences I have noticed between the 2.5L and the 3.0L . Let me know if I am seeing things

I believe that the original concern was that the 3.0 heads did not have the Contour type water pump drive. That seems to be changed now that the 2001 Taurus/Sable/Escape now have the same water pump drive off the back of the front head.

In my earlier hot rod days we went to great lengths to start with the heads with the biggest valves and ports. I'm sure this hasn't changed.

Now if there was just an easy source of the other things such as forged pistons, forged rods, greater cam selection, alternative intake manifold designs, etc. etc. etc.

It would also be nice if it were easier to work on these engines. With the right stuff, 300 HP with a naturally asperated engine should be obtainable. 250 HP should be very doable without compromising any streetability.

Ti rods & 'billet' cranks are 'in process'!!!! HMS Inc

Terry ... aren't these interchangeable from the 2.5 to 3.0? I remember hearing that the only difference in the short blocks of these setups is limited to the Bore ... rods and cranks are the same are they not? If so, you can get a pretty decent amount of money from the Taurus group.

Rods will fit 'modular' Ford motors, cranks V6 modular

octane.

No, if you are going to bother doing both, parts are going to cost around $4000-$4500 ... this doesn't include install prices, which would be at least an extra $1500-$2000. If you are willing to spend that much money, spend the extra $100-$200 (depending on source) per piston for LC pistons. If it where me, I would wait for Terry's Ti rods and billet crank ... doing a job right the first time might cost more up front, but will definitely cost less in the long run, both in money and time/aggrivation.