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My Mystique idles rather low, around 500RPM, always seems on the virge of stalling out. I was thinking if I increased the idle speed a little it would help this. Does anyone how to adjust the idle speed on the Zetec 4? Thank you.
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Originally posted by WarrenT:
My Mystique idles rather low, around 500RPM, always seems on the virge of stalling out. I was thinking if I increased the idle speed a little it would help this. Does anyone how to adjust the idle speed on the Zetec 4? Thank you.
Welcome. I don't think we can adjust the idle. The only way I can think of is to have the PCM reprogrammed, maybe by the dealer (?) or chipped. If you have a problem with the Mystique idling too low and stalling out, it could be a vacuum leak. You may want to check if you can hear a hissing sound under the hood. In addition, you may want to consider cleaning the MAF, IAC valve, or changing the air filter.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Hard-core CEG'er
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The only way to adjust idle properly is through the ECU.
Frank McCoy aka Mod-deth aka Mid Life Crisis aka SVT Doood aka mcgainer is a SCAM ARTIST
Pre98 Zetec - Some Mods
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CEG road warrior
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Originally posted by SleeperZ:
The only way to adjust idle properly is through the ECU.
Hector
2003 Rally Red Mitsubishi Evolution VIII
257HP/259TQ
2005 Lapis Blue Mazda 6s
RET: 00 Cabernet Red Ford Contour Zetec ATX SUPERCHARGED
160HP/141TQ
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Oh, I assumed there would be a manual adjustment like there was on my Supra. Thank you guys for clueing me in. I have checked the air filter, it's in very good shape and clean. Haven't tried cleaning the MAF sensor, have you guys had good results with that? What do your cars usually idle around? Mine sits pretty consistently at 500 RPM. I did not hear any vaccuum leaks, but yeah maybe it's the IAC.
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Originally posted by WarrenT:
Haven't tried cleaning the MAF sensor, have you guys had good results with that? maybe it's the IAC.
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
Removal
1. Disconnect battery ground cable
2. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube and resonator assembly.
3. Disconnect the main chassis vacuum line.
4. Disconnect the ignition coil and radio interference capacitor wiring.
5. Remove the fuel line bracket retaining bolt.
6. On 2.0L engine equipped vehicles, raise vehicle on hoist.
7.
7. Disconnect the engine control sensor wiring or fuel charging wiring (depending upon application) from the idle air control valve (IAC valve) at the idle air control valve connector.
8. On 2.5L engine equipped vehicles, remove retainer for engine control sensor wiring from the upper retaining stud bolt.
9. Remove the two idle air control valve retaining bolts or stud bolt (depending upon application).
10. Remove the idle air control valve and idle air control valve gasket.
Installation
1. Note: If scraping is necessary, be careful not to damage idle air control valve or intake manifold idle air control valve gasket surfaces or drop material into intake manifold.
Clean idle air control valve gasket mating surfaces.
2. To install idle air control valve, reverse Removal procedure. Tighten the fuel line bracket bolt to 8-12 N-m (71-106 lb-in).
3. On 2.5L engine equipped vehicles, tighten the retaining bolt and stud bolt to 8-12
4. On 2.0L engine equipped vehicles, tighten the idle air control valve retaining bolts to 8-11 N-m (71-97 lb-in).
Ray's how to.
"Replacing the IAC gasket:
(From IAC faq)
Over time, the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve becomes sticky due to buildup from the EGR and PCV systems. It can stick partially open such that idle quality is adversely affected, and engine RPM's will not drop below 1500. For a while, blipping the throttle will restore normal idle, but this only works for so long.
The fix is to remove the IAC valve by unbolting the two 8mm bolts that hold it on and disconnected the wiring plug. If you are careful enough, replacement of the gasket will not be necessary. The gasket costs less than US $1.00, so it is no tragedy if you destroy it. Once the valve is off, spray it out with some carb/intake cleaner and make sure any gunky residue is gone. Reattach, and you are done. It is a lot cheaper than a new IAC, which runs around US $70. Note: Ford claims the IAC cannot be cleaned, but this is not true in my experience."
MAF cleaning
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=zetecmaint&Number=991155&Forum=All_Forums&Words=10008&Match=Username&Searchpage=3&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=989728&Search=true#Post991155
and
http://www.contour.org/mods/mods.php?s=howto&displayid=36
Last edited by Tony2005; 08/25/05 01:33 AM.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Thank you Tony, and everyone else, you guys have been incredibly helpful and I really appreciate it!
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