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#1364333 08/18/05 06:07 PM
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Hello All,

Had my low coolant light come on and permanently stay on after a recent flush/fill. I filled the overflow tank 1/2" over the max. line (when engine cold) as prescribed by the FAQ to no avail. I even tried to agitate the overflow tank fluid to see if I could dislodge whatever might be affecting the sensor. No good. My dealer wants $72+ for the tank plus sensor (only way available) and therefore advises I just "live with it". That is not what I want to do, so I want to try cleaning the sensor first, and if necessary, clean the entire tank. What I could not find was any directions for removing the sensor.

I believe the sensor wiring is at the front bottom of the tank, attached by a square connector. That connector has what I presume is a spring wire on its bottom. Having ruined other connectors, I am asking for help in removing both this connector and the sensor assembly from the tank. Do I slide the wire down to release the wiring connection? How does the sensor come out of the tank?

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

98 Tour Sport 2.5 V6

#1364334 08/18/05 06:26 PM
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All sensors and plugs on these newer cars suck. But there should be a tab or something on the side take a SMALL flathead screw driver and push IN on that and (iirc don't remember how these work on some sensor, maybe this one just slides out) the plug/sensor should slide out. Good luck.


Jason G. 1997 Mercury Mystique GS ZETEC ATX Born: 11/96
#1364335 08/18/05 10:55 PM
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Originally posted by LonePalm:
Had my low coolant light come on and permanently stay on after a recent flush/fill.

I filled the overflow tank 1/2" over the max. line (when engine cold) as prescribed by the FAQ to no avail.

I even tried to agitate the overflow tank fluid to see if I could dislodge whatever might be affecting the sensor.

That is not what I want to do, so I want to try cleaning the sensor first, and if necessary, clean the entire tank.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!




This is what I would do if this were my Contour.

1) Check coolant strength. If you did a flush and fill at Ford or Indie and they had very dilute coolant strength, that could make your coolant sensor go haywire. ($5 coolant tester from Autozone). If coolant strength is low, siphon out coolant from recovery tank and pour in 100% strength coolant to half inch above max. Start engine and see if that solved the problem

2)If that did not work, siphon out coolant from recovery tank. Remove hose from bottom of recovery tank and tape up with duct tape so that nothing goes into cooling system. Then tape up plastic end connector at bottom of recovery tank. Then fill to 1/2 recovery tank with water. Using brush with sponge taped around it (the long type used to clean baby bottles), reach in from cap and try to clean the area by the sensor. Do it gently. The goal is to dislodge crud from the area, not destroy sensor. Then remove tape from bottom of recovery tank to let water drain out. Do this one or two more times. Then reinstall, and pour 100% coolant into recovery tank to half inch above max. Start engine and see if it works.

3) If this doesn't work, then only would I mess with trying to take out sensor.

Note: I have had to do Number 1 before when I had problems with the coolant light coming on after a flush and fill.


Good luck.







"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
#1364336 08/18/05 11:28 PM
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I'd point out that in #1, you aren't shooting for a 100% strength in the entire system.

you would still want to go for a 50/50 (thereabout) solution. I think Tony is stating to pour full strength in to RAISE the overall strength. If you add 50/50 in there, you are only maintaining the overall solution strength while raising the level.

In no way should you run 100% coolant in your system.


Ray


'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276 In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.


#1364337 08/18/05 11:35 PM
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Originally posted by Ray:
I'd point out that in #1, you aren't shooting for a 100% strength in the entire system.

you would still want to go for a 50/50 (thereabout) solution. I think Tony is stating to pour full strength in to RAISE the overall strength. If you add 50/50 in there, you are only maintaining the overall solution strength while raising the level.

In no way should you run 100% coolant in your system.

Ray




Ray, thank you for clarifying.

And I wasn't sure if LonePalm raised the recovery tank level to 1/2 inch above max with coolant or just distilled water. That $5 coolant tester from Autozone is a great investment.


"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
#1364338 08/19/05 06:01 PM
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To remove the sensor just take the bolts out that hold the tank to the fender. Then you can turn the sensor and it will come out without pulling the wire off. Once the sensor is out you will see how the plug comes off. Of course I am on my second sensor that only lasted a year. I am going to try the coolent mixture and see if that is my problem with the second sensor. I have also changed the level with the car cool and hot and still the light is on. Good luck.


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