Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Performance KKM + cold air induction?

What's the deal on the cold air induction part on the mods page? Based on the pictures I've seen, it looks like something that you install independent of an airbox. Or is it something that you can install into the end of the KKM? I'm a little confused here. Can anyone provide a little clarification?

Also if the KKM & cold air induction can be used together, I assume this helps avoid "heat soak"?

Thanks.
DM

The KKM is an open element air filter that replaces the stock airbox and it's internal air filter. Cold air induction typically refers to methods used to get cooder, external air to your air filter. Heat soak occurs when your air filter sucks in only hot (engine bay/radiator vicinity) air and performance suffers. Cold air induction and heat shields both help reduce heat soak. Some cold air induction mods hook directly to a KKM style filter. (Keep reading and searching, you've got the right idea...)

The closer you put the air filter to the front air dam...the colder the air gets basically. KKM is not a cold air intake, because it sits behind the battery.

The funny thing about that statement is.

Most "so called" cold air kits stick the filter down by the hot tranny and the radiator air wash. Nothing cold about those 2 things at all...

Matter of Fact. The only cold air coming into the engine bay (that stays cold!) comes from in front (and below) of the battery area. The battery acts like a shield to block out engine heat too. Besides the fender air draw of course...

So stay away from those "so called" cold air kits. Their placement is not designed well...

Well... Look at the new CTA "Cold Air Kit" It puts the filter right behind the battery. I guess someone was thinking now... Maybe there is one good kit...

And while I'm on the topic...

Don't ever use a foam filter. Severe lack of CFM rating and durability...

Search for the Topic... Filter Specs 101

Im gonna have to disagree on that one. My SMA ColdAir intake is putting me on some nice times, and better throttle response. I have no problems with it either. Its hard to say if it really does suck in hot air from the tranny...being air is sucked in while your driving so how warm can it actually get flowing from the filter to the engine, in a matter of less then a second. The KKM sucks in air that has already been trapped in the engine bay.

Hmmm...ill agree with durability, but only in harsh, dry climates. Foam filters will not break down THAT fast in humid places like FL where i live. Cotton may also work slightly better with air flow...but BAT explained that foam works better than cotton at actually filtering dirt and other particles due to its complex, multi-layered construction that isnt as elaborate in cotton.

Foam does filter a little better (hence why it flows considerably less - like 50% less - no lie!)

However I have been running a KKM for over a year and my oil samples show almost zero traces of silicon. I am lower then half the normal amount found using paper air filtration. I find those hard facts quite acceptable.

Plus I out flow the stock paper filter media. Something you can not say...
All sizes being equal paper out flows the best foam by over 12% The stock SVT filter area is quite significant. What's your effective filter area?

Again cold hard facts, not someone trying to sell you something...

Not to busrt your high, demonsvt, but it seems like cotton filter is doing a great job at filtering dirt with YOUR driving conditions and YOUR average dust levels. I don't know where you live, but it would seem to me the national silicon average with paper filter at blackstone labs is just that, an average. This average includes people driving around with el cheapo penzoil paper filters in Dust City, USA.

To me, there is no question two stage foam filters dust better than oiled gauze. The flow might be slightly less, but i doubt the difference represents more than 1hp on our cars. And I don't subscribe to the durability issue, either. My amsoil two stage panel filter still looks great after two cleanings. I wonder how you clean the cotton gauze without damaging it...

My levels were miniscule. (10 ppm with an average of 35 ppm) Doesn't matter what the average is. That alone shows it's doing an excellent job filtering for my application.

Single foam flows 50% less the cotton gauss. Dual foam even less and so forth.

I have admitted foam filters dust better. Companies like K&N even sell "Pre-chargers" that fit on their filterchargers for high dust areas. As you can imagine they are made out of foam.

Another thing to think about though is filter area. Larger filter area will filter out more dust then smaller since the air flow is drawn in over a greater surface area.

BTW - Cotton gauss has been show to be between 97-99% efficient at filtering dust. You can fight over that last 1% if you like. I'll take my performance advantage every day.

Also cotton gauss filters have a service life of 25 cleanings. This is usable life, not going down to filter degradation. So that means I can use my filter for 25years (supposedly - I clean mine about once a year)
I've seen foam filters deteriorate first hand. Of course most of those were on turbo-charged cars which are a bit more demanding on the filters... (they didn't head my warnings either - turbo's do not like eating foam at 60+k rpm! - oh well)

BTW - How many Joe & Jane Schmoes that treat their car like crap using bogus filters send their oil away to be analyzed, eh? Also the info is engine specific and the Oil results are oil specific (VI, flash, etc)

Also any abnormaly high reading are not used. (like any sampling)