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Ok well I fixed the problem with the random rpm shift in my car now I have a new problem. The car won't hold a charge. I had a big big habit of leaving my lights on a while back so I had to jump it at least 10 seperate occasions  (its a bad habit I would turn them on during the day by habit and when I park I'd forget they were on). So since then I haven't really driven the car. I went and put a charge on the battery and checked for dead cells and all was well. I started the car up and drove for about 20 miles and all was well. So I go inside cook lunch and an hour later go outside to start the car and nothing...it won't turn over. Now I'm at 120,000 miles so I know its time for new plugs, wires, filters, belts, gaskets, and just random things...but what could this problem be? Btw its a duratec ATX
Originally posted by PÃ?â?¢WDÃ?â?°Ã?®CÃ?Ë?Ã?Æ?TMÃ?â?¬N: I can do anything if i can find that powder .
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Have you started by doing the basic TOURbleshooting for charging?
Use a multimeter (voltmeter) and test the voltage across the battery terminals while running. It should be 14.0-14.7-ish (13.9, is fine, etc)
Rev the car via the TB and watch the voltage. It shouldn't drop.
Shut the car off, and remove the surface charge of the car (turn on headlights, high beams, and interiors for 60 seconds)
Measure voltage on the battery. It should be 12.0 or higher.
Poor charging voltages would indicate the alternator, or associated wiring. Poor off-voltage would indicate a bad battery.
If all else fails, we aren't far from each other, so let me know if you want any help with whatever it turns out to be (alternator, etc)
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog: I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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I'd like to know what the solution to Darpinian's previous problem was.
Last edited by Tony2005; 08/16/05 05:03 PM.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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As far as a voltmeter goes...no idea..lol.
I don't own one and I don't know how to use one, so if you could help me on that it would be cool. I'm off tomorrow so send me a pm.
The previous problem was solved by a new vehicle speed sensor. The faulty one was the cause of the erratic shifting. So it only partially solved the problem I had in the previous post. I had noted that it felt like the vehicle was dying and thats still the case, I've also developed a bit of a knock from under the car when going over anything not smooth. I'm thinking its a bad mount so theres really a few things I still need to address. Not to mention the EXTREMELY hard shift I feel going from neutral to drive I think this has to do with the mounts as well because it started once the knock started. I dunno but its become a hell of a workout keeping things together on this car. Its a good thing its been paid for for the past 2 years so the money I save by not having payments is maid up by the cost of repairs.
~darp~
Originally posted by PÃ?â?¢WDÃ?â?°Ã?®CÃ?Ë?Ã?Æ?TMÃ?â?¬N: I can do anything if i can find that powder .
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Originally posted by darpinian: As far as a voltmeter goes...no idea..lol.
I don't own one and I don't know how to use one, so if you could help me on that it would be cool.
LOL. Yes, it might be wise to contact Ray and use his services. I would too, if he were nearby.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Any novice mechanic should own a least a voltmeter, if not a multimeter. They can be had cheap.
You simply turn on the voltmeter, and set it to measure whatever type of voltage you are looking for (AC or DC). The voltage you are looking for is DC, so you set it to meaure DC voltage (signified visually by a solid line and a dotted line next to it, instead of a wavy line indicating AC).
Once within the DC set of choices, you choose the RANGE of voltage that you will be measuring (IE UP TO 1 volt, 10 volts, 100 volts, etc) You are looking for up to 14.7 so the next highest choice above 14.7...
Then simply place the probes on the battery terminals (red for positive, and black for negative).
Read the screen, then do as I suggested with revving the car, and also measuring the off-voltage.
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog: I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Ok I did as you said...and 2 things. 1) I feel stupid because that was very easy... 2) problem solved...
Turns out it was the alternator. Ironically while I was reading the multimeter the car died, pretty much all I needed to know. So I got to work and took the alternator out headed up to napa for a new one...plus saved 10 dollars on the core exchange. So a few hurt nuckles and an hour or so later I have a new alternator.
I jumped the car and took it for a nice long ride..and everything feels great again. Every feels I should just trade in the tour for something new but I can't see myself doing it. The tour has been paid off for 2 years now. All those months that I have no payments I gladly put back into the car in form of maintence. It just feels good to have the tour back.
EDIt: I take the back about everything feeling great..lol Still one problem left to solve. And thats the bang shifting. I have no idea where to start on this..I have no CEL or anything. I've had this problem for a while though, when I shift from park to drive or reverse I get this big jerk. And when I shift from drive or reverse to park I get the same jerk. Its way more noticable than before. I'm gonna break things down and see whats up.
Input would be good.
Originally posted by PÃ?â?¢WDÃ?â?°Ã?®CÃ?Ë?Ã?Æ?TMÃ?â?¬N: I can do anything if i can find that powder .
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Originally posted by darpinian: And thats the bang shifting. I have no idea where to start on this..I have no CEL or anything. I've had this problem for a while though, when I shift from park to drive or reverse I get this big jerk. And when I shift from drive or reverse to park I get the same jerk. Its way more noticable than before. I'm gonna break things down and see whats up.
Input would be good.
Isn't bang shifting related to TSS?
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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That is normally a "while driving", from 1-2, or 2-3 bang shift.
His is from park to drive, or reverse. I would suspect a blown motor, or tranny mount.
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog: I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Ok well lets be positive and pray for a blown tranny mount..lol. Is there only one tranny mount? Is this what I'm looking for? I'm trying to get everything done this friday before I move into my new apartment so I'm organizing everything into one big fix it day. As far as the fixing this goes will the tranny need to be pulled in order to replace the mount? Also stupid me after fixing the alternator and putting things back together I managed to get the A/C Assembly hose sliced by the belt that I replaced..lol. Damn it that hose is $93, I'm starting to wonder why I have such bad luck. I need to be more careful. Anyway as it stands I'm looking at the Hose Assembly, Tranny mount, and my new K&N RU 3530. Should be a fun friday. BTW where do we get that the adapter for the RU3530? ~darp~
Originally posted by PÃ?â?¢WDÃ?â?°Ã?®CÃ?Ë?Ã?Æ?TMÃ?â?¬N: I can do anything if i can find that powder .
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