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Hello, I have a 97 contour GL with the 4cyl 2.0L with approx 96k. I have done multiple searches that have led me to a couple of sensors that I thought needed replaced. Car ran good for a few weeks until yesterday, I was driving down the road and ther car started shuttering and felt like it was out of gas. I coasted to a parking spot and had it towed to my house. After the car is first started it will run fine for a few minutes before it starts an irratic idle and eventually stalls. I have recently replaced the MAF(autozone replacement) and the TPS(autozone replacement) with no luck. The fuel pressure checked at approx. 30-32 psi during the those first couple of minutes on start-up. Do you guys have any suggestions on what I can check next to possibly diagnose this problem? I am having trouble since there is no check engine light or trouble codes.
Any help is much appreciated, and thanks in advance.
Luke
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Tony knows what he's talking about. I had similar problems recently (except without completely stalling) and have recently changed the fuel filter, spark plugs, and spark plug wires and everything seems (touch wood) to have returned to normal. The other option is the IAC but I've yet to locate the gd gadget to clean it. I'm still searching but it's not as desperate a search as it once was.
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Originally posted by Paul9:
Tony knows what he's talking about.
Thank you Paul. I thought you would have located the IAC by now. I will check the Ford CD (to see how different the location is for a Zetec) and let you know tonight
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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OK OK, thanks guys I will most definately replace the fuel filter tonight.
Where is the IAC sensor located??
and
What is the sensor that is located on the the bottom of the intake tube in between the MAF and the throttle body??
Luke
Last edited by LightningLuke; 07/27/05 04:56 PM.
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Paul and Luke, Originally posted by LightningLuke:
Where is the IAC sensor located??
I looked at the Haynes manual and the Zetec IAC valve is located next to the starter. Er.., it does look different than the Duratec IAC but maybe it is just the way it looks in the Haynes manual. Below are the steps from the 1996 Ford CD to remove it (assuming it is the same as a 1998).
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
Removal
1. Disconnect battery ground cable
2. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube and resonator assembly.
3. Disconnect the main chassis vacuum line.
4. Disconnect the ignition coil and radio interference capacitor wiring.
5. Remove the fuel line bracket retaining bolt.
6. On 2.0L engine equipped vehicles, raise vehicle on hoist.
7.
7. Disconnect the engine control sensor wiring or fuel charging wiring (depending upon application) from the idle air control valve (IAC valve) at the idle air control valve connector.
8. On 2.5L engine equipped vehicles, remove retainer for engine control sensor wiring from the upper retaining stud bolt.
9. Remove the two idle air control valve retaining bolts or stud bolt (depending upon application).
10. Remove the idle air control valve and idle air control valve gasket.
Installation
1. Note: If scraping is necessary, be careful not to damage idle air control valve or intake manifold idle air control valve gasket surfaces or drop material into intake manifold.
Clean idle air control valve gasket mating surfaces.
2. To install idle air control valve, reverse Removal procedure. Tighten the fuel line bracket bolt to 8-12 N-m (71-106 lb-in).
3. On 2.5L engine equipped vehicles, tighten the retaining bolt and stud bolt to 8-12
4. On 2.0L engine equipped vehicles, tighten the idle air control valve retaining bolts to 8-11 N-m (71-97 lb-in).
Good luck.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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I replaced the fuel filter last night with no change. So I decided to find the IAC and take it off and clean it. After cleaning it with some carb cleaner and hitting it with some air, I re-installed it and started the car with, again, no change. So I will just order a new one and go from there. I hope this is the problem? Do you guys think its possible that the remanufactured MAF is defective or could it possibly be the brain?? I guess I will take one thing at a time and replace the IAC.
Luke
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Originally posted by LightningLuke:
I replaced the fuel filter last night with no change. So I decided to find the IAC and take it off and clean it. After cleaning it with some carb cleaner and hitting it with some air, I re-installed it and started the car with, again, no change.
No change as in still shuddering? Pull out Fuse 4 and 11 (for a few minutes), reinstall them, and then drive on the highway for a little while to see if the computer will adjust to the "new" settings (before spending more money on a new IAC or MAF).
Last edited by Tony2005; 07/28/05 01:33 PM.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Thanks Tony, yes at idle it is shuttering and still stalling. I can keep it running if I keep the throttle at 1/2 or above. During the cleaning process of the IAC and fuel filter replacement I had the battery disconnected. So I assumed the computer would start from fresh and have to re-learn the sensor characteristics. Am I wrong??
By the way what are fuses 4 and 11?
And would you happen to know what the sensor is on the bottom of the intake tube in-between the MAF and the thrttle body?
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