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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 51
CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 51 |
Tried the penetrating oil routine but no go.
Drum looks ok, the rust was so bad I had to use a 4 by 4 and hydraulic jack to press the wheel off before starting the job. I finally took my actylene torch and roasted the drum where it meets the hub. Then it came loose with some severe prying.
The bearing seems fine but it was smoking hot.
Does anyone know if there is a front seal built into the front side of the wheel bearing? When I reinstalled the hub, I packed grease around the nut area. I dont like this design of the wheel bearing. would have been much better to just use inner and outer separate tapered bearings with a separate grease seal. They seem to be making cars more difficult and harder to work on. If this had been this type of design, when a bearing went bad, just a few dollars, but these sealed permanently pressed in bearings with integral seals are not a good way of building something from a maintenance view.
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,693
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,693 |
It is a sealed bearing. They hold up much better than the old non sealed bearings that were common many years ago. Much better. If you got the bearing very hot, you may have either damaged the seal or melted the grease. It is possible that you have damaged it enough that it needs to be replaced.
The way to keep the drum from sticking in the future is to smear a little anti-sieze on the hub to drum mating surface especially around the hole. You can do the same at the drum to wheel mating surface. Use it sparingly so that you don't get any on the brake friction surfaces.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 51
CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
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Posts: 51 |
The old bearing design tapered rollers with a separate seal my be old design, but they were reliable, cheap, and easy to repair. Now you have to buy the entire hub with bearing. So when these cars go in for service, now they need hubs, bearings and drums since I am sure most shops would have just destroyed the old drums and hubs and told the owner an automatic price.
Drum $50
Hub $45
Laber $100
I bought this car up in New York. We used to live in Buffalo in the 60's and 70's. I worked on my own cars as a kid and I dont remember this terrible a time with rusted wheels. This car had brand new tires and It went thru one winter and rusted together this tightly. I definitely put some antiseize on the parts.
I was thinking about these wheel bearings. On a double roller taper setup, the bearings are spaced 4 to 5 inchs apart and have a large grease reservoir. The new style has split races an inch apart and a tiny reservoir. IMO, they are more failure prone due to loading and grease issues and are inferior design and probably a money maker for service.
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,693
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,693 |
Originally posted by sdowney717:
The old bearing design tapered rollers with a separate seal my be old design, but they were reliable, cheap, and easy to repair. Now you have to buy the entire hub with bearing. So when these cars go in for service, now they need hubs, bearings and drums since I am sure most shops would have just destroyed the old drums and hubs and told the owner an automatic price.
Drum $50
Hub $45
Laber $100
I bought this car up in New York. We used to live in Buffalo in the 60's and 70's. I worked on my own cars as a kid and I dont remember this terrible a time with rusted wheels. This car had brand new tires and It went thru one winter and rusted together this tightly. I definitely put some antiseize on the parts.
I was thinking about these wheel bearings. On a double roller taper setup, the bearings are spaced 4 to 5 inchs apart and have a large grease reservoir. The new style has split races an inch apart and a tiny reservoir. IMO, they are more failure prone due to loading and grease issues and are inferior design and probably a money maker for service.
I'm sure that you will believe whatever you want to believe.
Having worked as a technician before the advent of sealed bearings, I can say with no qualification whatsoever that the problems with wheel bearings has dramatically reduced with sealed bearings. It is probably in the neighborhood of 10% of what it used to be.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 51
CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
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Posts: 51 |
Guess what, the front part of this bearing is not sealed.
I took apart my hub bearing and I find plastic races holding the balls.
I find only one seal and that is on the backside of the hub, the front or outer side of the bearing has no seal.
There is a flimsy spring steel clip holding the split shells together. This popped off and my bearing fell apart.
I had removed the other hub off the journal and decided to give it a wack with the sledge using some wood to protect it. This was an atempt to separate the drum from the hub without using heat. I wish I had a press.
SO the rear hub bearings are sealed only on the inner race shell not the outer. Still dont like it because it is causing me grief!
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