Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting '95 Contour - Multipal problems - Flooding - Alt.

Should be above 14 volts if the alternator is charging.

Sounds like a voltage problem to me...had this problem on a chevy and when it drops below 9 volts the computer will not function. What voltage do you have at the battery with the car running? Battery could be already drained running a negative draw. I would fully charge the battery on slow charge overnight with a battery charger, then test your alternator output charge after doing that. Check that you dont have a broken ground strap to the engine as well.

Sick all weekend.(summer cold) Did get the battery fully charged. Now we are in a heat wave for a few days. Hopefully I will get the readings tonight or tomorrow.

Any more ideas?

Ok, time to get back on this. I gave up waiting and Pulled the Alternator myself.

I found the Batt. Post on the rear was completely fried. Burnt to the point of crystalizing the protective boot. The wiring looks good and the wire Lugs were tight on the post. Any thoughts on that kind of over heating internally? Could water shorting cause this?

Can anyone provide wire functions on the Alt/Regulator? My Chilton is less than useless. A good link would work fine.

Large red = Batt. lead.
Small wire on batt post.
3 wires in Reg. connector - 1 read hot(exciter wire?)
1 wire in a single connector

I'd like to confirm function on all these before fighting the Alt back in place.

Did you know you do not have to pull the y pipe and Axle on a v-6 as ford claims?

How do you get access without removing those, I have not changed mine yet. I looked in the schematic

Red=Battery

3Wires in regulator are:

1 hot red
1 green/black strip to charge light
1 gray to fields

the other wires were not shown, just put everything back as was. I figure at least one other wire was a ground.

For access without removing ypipe. etc, follow the how-to under duratec maintenance-->duratec faq...



I would have checked voltage at the battery before pulling the alt, but since you already have it.....

I would imaging that thw splash shield is the beginning of your problem. I suspect that the speedo/tach wierdness is from low voltage on the battery, with a no charge condition from the alt.. equating to low voltage at all times, even if you DID get the car started. The car does some freaky stuff at low voltage. (wipers are alive.. speedo/tach jumping or dying, etc)

the airbag light flashing could be the code that has a double meaning. one of which is "low battery", ironically enough, and would fit right in with this situation.

Since your alternator is out already, replace it with an Autozone "lifetimer" (that is if you don't want to use the old alt., which I wouldn't even if it tests fine...), verify the megafuse resistance (should be nill to none), then verify chargin voltage while running at the battery to be 14.2-14.7-ish.

This should eliminate the wierdness, the charge light, the no start, etc.

You stated that you COULD get the car to start by holding the gas down. on a fuel injected car this is not needed, but that is a way to test the operation of the IAC. I would clean the IAC as a precautionary measure, as it may come in to play sooner rather than later. (cleaning info is under the UIM/LIM rebuild aid under duratec maintenance's "duratec faq"

Ray

{You stated that you COULD get the car to start by holding the gas down. on a fuel injected car this is not needed, but that is a way to test the operation of the IAC.}

Ray, that is correct. The car will immediately start flooding when trying to start. Holding the throttle full open allows enough air intake to finally overcome the flooding.

I also found by pulling the fuel pump fuse it will start right up. As soon as it starts, I replace the fues and the idle settles.
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Here is where I am now.

Alt was toast. Burnt and dead. Wires tested ok but heat damage on a few small ones. I have rewired to repair that and have the new Alt in place.
The car started right up, without pulling the fuse. Voltage read 13.8v Engine light was on but went out for a few seconds, then returned.
Idle slowly dropped to about 500 and alt. stopped charging(low rpm). Holding Idle up, voltage came back to 13.3v(kind of low)

I pulled the IAC to clean and inspect. It looks to be worn out. Has no fixed positioning, like the spring is detached. I ordered a replacement to install today.
This car is driving me

IAC installed.

Ok- Alternator issue Repaired.
New IAC
New Mass Air

Car will/may start first time when stone cold. Check engine light still on.
After first start forget it. Floods even if first started turned off and attempted again.

Only way to start is pull Fuel Pump Fuse! Replace after start.
Engine wants to high idle after for a few minutes and smokes from excess fuel until cleared.
Idle stays high when shifting gears.

Thoughts?
Maybe fuel regulator?

Just attempted a computer read again via test light to Pin #4 on obd 1 connector. Per: http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/

Pin #4 has a steady -12v ????????