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mikey Offline OP
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I have some Front Sway bar bushings that I wanted to install, but when I lifted the car, I noticed it may be more work than I thought!
I had to drop the gas tank to get the new rear way bar bar and bushings in...I was hoping the front would be a bit easier!!
Can anyone shed some light on the subject??
It there an easy way to do this?
Thank muchly ahead of time!


99 SVT (Black) # 2642 of 2760
Mirko Racing Intake \K&N Filter (RU 3130)
BAT Air Inlet Pipe
HD Motor Mount Inserts \Front - Rear Sway Bar Bushings
BAT 22mm (Rear) Sway Bar, Bat Springs \ Koni Sport Struts
Performance Fords - Spherical Rod End Links (Rear)
Performance Fords - Street Link
SHO Shop Strut Tower Braces (Front and Back)
SHO Shop Body Sub Frame Connectors
Aeroquip Stainless Steel Brake lines (Front/Back)
Sho Shop "Y' Pipe
Magnecor Wires \ Bosch +4 plugs
Ford Dual Mass Crank Damper
Pillar Guage Pod
Perma-Cool Remote Oil filter Mount
Summit Racing Polished Almn Battery Relocation Kit
MSDS Headers (not installed)
B&M Short Shifter
Sparco Pedals (4 pedal set)
(I think I got 'em all)...someone sell me something else!!
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The fronts are a PITA, from trying (and failing) it myself and from reading a number of posts on the subject. I've held off doing my own for the time being, given that you have to drop the front frame to get the old ones out and the new ones in (something I think I'm going to let my mechanic tackle). Some have posted that you can do it without backing the frame down, but I simply don't see how. It's a matter of clearance.


JaTo
Overland Park, KS
JaTo@kc.rr.com

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From the PITA install experiences I've heard about, you have to lower the rear bolts on the front subframe to access the appropriate bolts, etc.


\'94 Cobra #4963/5009, black on black, not quite stock
Formerly owned a black '00 SVT, #1972
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Hmmm, the cougar may be different, but I didn't have any real trouble changing mine out.

Look and see if you have a "relief" pressed into the frame above the brackets. If so, you can use a open-ended box wrench to slowly back the bolts out an eight of a turn at a time, then rock the bolt/bracket around and you will get the bolts loose. The bolts closer to the front of the car are easy.

Otoh, if you just loosen the subframe bolts about half an inch, you'll get all kinds of room to work.

hth,
dan

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I save this post for such an occasion. This is for you that DON'T USE SEARCH. I have held off on this mod as well. I bought some ratcheting close end wrenches for this mod since my first tackle backfired.

From Greg L. on the list. Sorry Greg I can't recall your name here.

Yes for the fronts I did loosen the subframe. You can get over an inch of
extra clearance without removing the bolts completely. (very simple
procedure) I loosened the rear subframe bolts, but did not remove them.

I loosened the rear bolts on the bushing caps, but removed the front bolts entirely. This gave me enough room to slide the old bushings out and the new ones in. (highly lubed of course, don't forget the lube!) Plus I didn't have to try and line up the bushing cap for install. I just put the front bolt it and tightened it down...

I also had a set of gear wrenches among other tools to make it a little easier.

The driver side one is not too bad, but the passenger side one took some
time and finagling.


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Quote:
Originally posted by todras:
From Greg L. on the list. Sorry Greg I can't recall your name here.


It's DemonSVT, but thanks for diggin' up the post... laugh


2000 SVT #674 - Check it out!

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mikey Offline OP
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Thanks for the info guys!
Also forgot about the search....even better reminder!!


99 SVT (Black) # 2642 of 2760
Mirko Racing Intake \K&N Filter (RU 3130)
BAT Air Inlet Pipe
HD Motor Mount Inserts \Front - Rear Sway Bar Bushings
BAT 22mm (Rear) Sway Bar, Bat Springs \ Koni Sport Struts
Performance Fords - Spherical Rod End Links (Rear)
Performance Fords - Street Link
SHO Shop Strut Tower Braces (Front and Back)
SHO Shop Body Sub Frame Connectors
Aeroquip Stainless Steel Brake lines (Front/Back)
Sho Shop "Y' Pipe
Magnecor Wires \ Bosch +4 plugs
Ford Dual Mass Crank Damper
Pillar Guage Pod
Perma-Cool Remote Oil filter Mount
Summit Racing Polished Almn Battery Relocation Kit
MSDS Headers (not installed)
B&M Short Shifter
Sparco Pedals (4 pedal set)
(I think I got 'em all)...someone sell me something else!!
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 206
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Quote:
Originally posted by Steve Bassen:
From the PITA install experiences I've heard about, you have to lower the rear bolts on the front subframe to access the appropriate bolts, etc.


Does this necessitate a realignment afterwards? In a similar vein, should a realignment be done after installing a new rear swaybar?

Eric


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