Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Performance My homemade CAI/heatshield....it works!

Most likely the sides. The top is right near the hood so it isn't getting much air there.

Thats my thinking too, although its a non-svt, basically what's done is a "home made svt air box" right? Kinda defeating the object of the KKM.

If anything, make it like the SVT KKM, where it uses the fender air duck but still "uses" the KKM filter (the outside of the filter).

Don't get me wrong, looks cool and good thinking...just not sure it's doing what you think you is.

i think everyone is wasting their time trying to perfect the air intake. you are only talking about a couple of hp here... personally i think the kkm is a waste of money... unless you really like the sound, of have opened up your exhaust a little... but even then i really don't think it is worth more then 1 or 2 hp...

Dyno proven 5-8 HP.

Simon, like I stated higher up... It's cone area. The K&N SVT replacement filter is long and narrow with a solid cap on the end. S&B filter has a wider base and an inverted cap to increase cone area.

well i have a dyno proven svt air filter vs kkm for 1 hp

S&B claims that their filter draws it's air through the inner opening primarily. When extra air is required (WOT) it then utilizes the complete inner/outer filtering area. Sounds like this is incorrect and it's always drawing from both sides of the filter. What does the inside of your contraption look like?

Plush Containment!

The surface area is still there - just within the "box." The goal is to increase surface area and that is done, the other goal is to keep CA coming through to this surface area and deflecting heat as well. This is all accomplished with the containment above GOOD WORK!
The fact that the air is running from the fenderwell is the saving grace here, otherwise you would be stifling the thing like OEM box. GAINS ARE LOW, but the loss is LESS torque wise with this box-type surround.

I run a CAI through the wheel well also, however I have a cone filter setup within a Lexan Airbox/Funnel to deflect any excessive heat... hopefully I managed to reduce the intake temps significantly, no exact numbers. But the effect is noticed, especially when the car has just warmed up! Long intensive driving, and 90 degree daze don't seem to be taking as much of a toll as back at stock. The key is to reduce the temps of the heat source IE: cermic coat, tape/wrap, NOS...

COOL! Wink

Ba

You could always take out the Rotozip or Dremmel/Wizard and cut out the hole more, make it bigger for more air. It wouldn't compromise the structure there either.

John

I have it just like what you say. I have some air duct connected to the fender air duct thing and into the inverted cone of the KKM. It helped the heat soak problem a lot last year but doesn't seem to help this year (maybe it's my cats that are having problem). Anyway, it's time to gut those damn cats!

posted by Bret
"i think everyone is wasting their time trying to perfect the air intake. you are only talking about a couple of hp here... personally i think the kkm is a waste of money..."

I think you are part right and part wrong Bret. As you stated- without an airbox, the KKM gains only 1-3HP over the SVTairbox/K&N as demonstrated by at least 3 dyno comparisons I'm aware of. But look at this (exerpt from FAQ, mis topics)

50 MPH, 88F, 75% humidity data obtained with Ford Rotunda NGS scan tool.

Stock SVT airbox
intake air temp 114F
MAF flow 3.8lb/min

KKM
intake air temp 148F
MAF flow 5.5lb/min

So, the KKM flowed about 45% more air. We have seen in dyno runs that the KKM leans out the rich SVT mixure significantly more than the stock SVT airbox/K&N. But with 45% more airflow, why only a small increase in power? Look at the 30F increase in intake air temp! Another posting on FAQ with underhood recorded temps at different speeds varifies this 30F or so increase, and I found similar numbers myself last summer in some informal testing. The formula is for each 10F in temp you lose 1% of you HP. So for us, that 30F is 6HP. This 6HP is what you stand to gain with a good airbox, over and above the 2HP or so typically found for the free standing KKM. (This is as much as a $500 catback!). The heat shield idea is a partial solution but without closing off all engine bay air, IAT will still be higher than stock. If you can get enough cool air into a closed box big enough for the KKM, I'm convinced that its going to give you about 6 cheap HP. (May not show on dyno IF you do runs with the hood open as heat soak minimized). And, more airflow is likly to be even more important in realising best gains from headers, exhaust mods, big throttle bodies, MAFs, etc.

So, John Miks is helping me out on this one with a custom designed airbox (a closed version of his heatshield). And well see.