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#1302083 06/10/05 05:52 PM
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The stupid TPS screws won't come out without getting striped! Guess I'll have to use a small pair of vise grips and grab them around the outside of them. I didn't spend 25 bucks on emory cloth, files, screws and countersink bits for nothing!!!


'00 T-Red TourSE 2.5L ATX Foglight Mod,Optimized Y-Pipe & TB, FSVT F/P,RU-3530 http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/688552
#1302084 06/10/05 05:58 PM
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Mine were a pain to get out too. I ended up using the best fitting philips I had, putting it in a 1/4" socket and using a ratcheting wrench to get it out. It still wasn't easy, but it worked and the screws didn't get chewed up...

Good luck with it!


1999 Mystique LS V6 Alpine CDA-9807, Rear deck sub, Opt. TB, K&N RU-3530/MAF adaptor, custom heatshield, FSVT 17's, SCT 4-program chip, Eibach's/ST200's, Hella Fogs...
#1302085 06/10/05 06:04 PM
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Put it in a vice and then put the screwdriver on each screw and hit each screw with a hammer to loosen the rust/oxidation.


2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi #1 for Bendix Brakes Kits! Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55 AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70 Gutted pre-cats $80/set A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
#1302086 06/10/05 06:09 PM
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PB Blaster is your friend, guys. Soak the two screws with a couple squirts for a few minutes and screw them off. Just clean it up when you are done with some TB cleaner.


2006 Pontiac G6 3900SFI GTP Coupe CAI, Stainless Cat Back, Vector Tune, Strut Brace, Eibach Pro Kit, Custom Made Projector Headlights, 4300K, 20% Tint Former Owner- 2000 "Stryped" CSVT CEG Dragon Run- Oct 13-15
#1302087 06/10/05 07:28 PM
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Sounds like you used too small of a screw driver for starters.

They are tough to get out but with a properly sized screw driver and downward force you can break the loctite used on them.


2000 SVT #674 13.47 @ 102 - All Motor! It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
#1302088 06/10/05 09:19 PM
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It's cool. My #2 phillips would fit but the screws are so darn soft. My #3 phillips was too big. I used a hacksaw and made them flatheads and they finally came out. I got-r-done and yes I can "feel" the difference in response. Not as much "lag" I guess would be the best term.

Chalk up one more Mod!!!


'00 T-Red TourSE 2.5L ATX Foglight Mod,Optimized Y-Pipe & TB, FSVT F/P,RU-3530 http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/688552
#1302089 06/10/05 10:36 PM
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....yeah.


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
#1302090 06/11/05 01:54 AM
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Did you notice a difference with th optimized Y-pipe??


1999 Mystique LS V6 Alpine CDA-9807, Rear deck sub, Opt. TB, K&N RU-3530/MAF adaptor, custom heatshield, FSVT 17's, SCT 4-program chip, Eibach's/ST200's, Hella Fogs...
#1302091 06/11/05 02:27 AM
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Yes I did not much but you can tell slightly more pick up and overall sound just a touch louder. Got mine done for $50 at local muffler shop.

Now just waiting to join the ranks of three others that posted on here wit da tree liters


'00 T-Red TourSE 2.5L ATX Foglight Mod,Optimized Y-Pipe & TB, FSVT F/P,RU-3530 http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/688552
#1302092 06/11/05 02:30 AM
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impact driver is your friend

it will get the screws right out


Russell Oval Port 3L Nearly Done MTX75 w/ Homebrew Zetec FD and Torsen Complete
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