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All right, it was the compressor, not the freon level.

Now, the new one is offered by Signature LV for like $260.

The other option is Ebay's remanufactured one. For the price of $230 they offer a kit containing:

NEWLY REMANUFACTURED COMPRESSOR WITH CLUTCH AND ONE-YEAR WARRANTY*
1 - NEW FILTER DRIER
1 - NEW EXPANSION VALVE
8 - OZ. OIL FOR 134A SYSTEMS (PAG OR ESTERS)

What's in your opinion is a better choice considering the insignificant diff of 30 bux?

Thanks.

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Anyone?

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Is the clutch kicking in? If it's just that part, it would be cheaper than replacing the whole compressor. My clutch is dead, and I'm just trying to find the time to replace it.


-06 GTO Torrid Red/M6 -98 LS with BPU -05 Honda Odyssey EX-L mv .zig ..\for\great\.justice
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What kind of warranty does the new one from Signature have?

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Originally posted by Bob Parmalade:
Is the clutch kicking in? If it's just that part, it would be cheaper than replacing the whole compressor. My clutch is dead, and I'm just trying to find the time to replace it.




Often the clutch isn't dead.....

/disclaimer
I am a Taurus guy over here for MTX75 info so I cannot swear that what I am about to say applies to the contour, but I believe it probably does.
/end disclaimer

On the SHO's we frequently see the issues with the A/C clutch not engaging the compressor. This issue is very common the the SHO's as they all have EATC so the climate control cycles the compressor more frequently as it is needed to maintain the set cabin temp. The A/C clutch has an air gap of the end of the electro magnetic coil that needs to be reasonably within spec or the electro-magnet is not strong enough to pull the clutch in.

To test for this, Star the car and set your air to Max A/C and carefully take the end of a broomstick and push in on the center of the A/C clutch. If it engages and remains engaged then the problem is that your clutch has worn and the air gap is too great a distance for the clutch to get pulled in.

This is good news......

If you pull the clutch apart you will find the shim(s) where the air gap was set at the factory. You can reshim to within spec, but most report good results with just taking the installed shim out.

Usually the dead giveaway that the clutch is going is that the air works until the car gets warm or sits in city traffic. As the coil in the clutch gets warm from it's ambient surroundings it has more internal resistance and hence less current flows which yields less pull in power. So if your air works when the car has been sitting cold for a good while and then quits it means you Air gap is probably on the fringe. The broomstick test is the true telltale, if the clutch remains engaged at all after you take the broomstick away then the coil is working but the air gap is too great.

Last edited by ven0m; 06/13/05 12:23 AM.

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