Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Forced Induction Turbo Timer almost installed, please help!!!!

So with the help of the turbo timer install thread I was able to get it wired up and it disables when the e-brake is dropped and does everything else correctly UNTIL the actual key is taken out of the ignition, it will let me turn the key all the way down and what not but as soon as it gets pulled out, BAM the whole thing shuts down. Please help me with what wire may be in the wrong spot etc. thanks!

Have you tried after driving around for a while. Depending on what one you have they calculate run time after ign off, by how much driving has been done.

So you can switch it all the way to off, but if you withdraw the key it shuts down?? Weird, I wonder if you tapped into the wire that senses the key in the ignition, instead of the correct wire. Sounds like it.

The wire you tapped into is the one that causes the chime to sound when you leave the key in the ingition and open the door.

so which is the correct wire that it should be tapped into?? And no its not just because it calculates my run time because even when I use a preset like 20 seconds if I pull out that key with 12 seconds remaining the whole thing shuts down, please help me this is very frustrating seeing as how I am so close to having it right.

Did you follow my instruction EXACTLY? If so, I may have quoted the one wire to be incorrect. Use a multimeter set to DC volts to verify the right wires.

Check to see if the wire you tapped goes hot JUSt when you insert the ket, but is grounded when removed. If so you tapped the wrong wire.

does your car have pats?

PATS is not an issue. Mine has PATS and the turbo-timer works fine.

I guarantee 200% he tapped the wrong wire.

I have a Compustar alarm that lets the car run until you shut the doors and has a remote start on it. It doesn't have any trouble with PATs. Now that may be because they did something to bypass it though.

I didn't adjust a thing with PATS and it works fine.

Then again there MAY be something to do with the PATS jumper I did on the ECU board for running the chip. But from memory PATS only looks for a key when it starts and not while the engine is running.

But then again so long as the key is in close proximity to the cylinder it should matter as the signal is wireless and not actually through the metal of the key.

If you have a spare you can test this. Hold the spare right up against the cylnder or key entrance to it, and then pull out the key that's in there. If the turbo timer works, then their is a PATS issue, if not then you have tapped the wrong wire as I suggested earlier.

PATS has nothing to do with the car once it's running. All soldering the board does is activate the J3 port that you plug the chip into. Something is wired incorrectly. Suneils car worked perfectly when I installed his.