Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting I've been had & I have had enough

The subject doesn't really sum up my question. Help guys!

I've posted a couple of times about my'95 GL woes.

A bit of a story first....
Local mechanic said I needed a timing belt and a new EGR valve. Looked at the belt myself, it looks GOOD. I knew I should have been suspicious. Anyway, I decided to replace the EGR valve myself. CEL was on, didn't know code at time.

EGR was a PIA. I'm no mechanic. My replacement part has a piece of hose on the bottom that I assumed needed to be replace as well. What I didn't know (Used alldatadiy instructions) was that this hose contained coolant. OK, no biggie. The clamps were a [censored]. Sears didn't have 22MM crowfoot. 22mm stubby wrench took like 30 mins to loosen nut on bottom. ugh, finally got it all apart. Putting in new EGR, Cross threaded bolts, argh, cant get hose clamps back on, argh. took a break. OK, finally got it all back together. Test drive.

Argh - No change in drive-ability. Took a bit longer than usual for CEL to come back on. Now at idle instead of rough it stalls (Manual trans).

My question...
OK - I read the post on checking engine light in OBD I systems. Did the test and came up with the following....

335
522
1
172

The actual sequence was as follows: 335, 522, 335, 522, long pause, one blink, long pause, one blink, pause, 7 blinks, pause, 2 blinks, long pause, 172 again, end. I re-ran test and got same results.

OK - So if I am reading this correctly, using
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/3digitcodes.html as a reference...

(335) EGR feedback signal is/was out of range - EVR or PFE
(522) Park/Neutral Position <<<normal on manual trans>>>
1 or 172 NA???

OK - So what gives. New EGR valve, still getting CEL and 335 code. Stalls at idle.

Other symptoms, related or not, who knows....
AC only blows warm, refrigerant fully pressurized. (Vacuum prob?)
Lots of pinging on acceleration
Seems less power than it used to have (I could burn rubber from stop and cant now )

Oh - And one more thing. When in shop it was for Emissions inspection. To pass it required an "exhaust leak" to be fixed. New cat OR "he has a guy to weld on a new pipe" since cat was fine. Weld job a lot cheaper. Done and car passes emissions testing. (BY THE WAY, CEL and rough idle started when I picked up from mechanic, I did take back and they said EGR valve, unrelated, just a coincidence, bla bla bla). Anyway, I just found teh following on alldatadiy "NOTE: PFE/DPFE system can sense a lack of pressure in the vehicle exhaust system." Related??? I have Really suspicions and kind of cranky.

Where do I go from here?

Quote:

---

DTC 335 indicates the PFE/DPFE sensor is out of Self-Test range.

Possible causes:

-- Damaged PFE/DPFE sensor.

-- Obstructed pressure inlet hose(s).

-- Garage exhaust ventilation system affecting PFE/DPFE sensor operation.

NOTE:
PFE/DPFE system can sense a lack of pressure in the vehicle exhaust system. An efficient garage exhaust ventilation system that is installed during Key On Engine Off (KOEO) DTM may generate a DTC 335.

l Remove garage forced ventilation system and properly vent to atmosphere.

l Rerun KOEO Self-Test.

l Is DTC 335 present?

Yes
GO to �«DL9�».

No
ADDRESS other DTCs. If none, CONTINUE with �«Quick Test�».


DL9 CHECK PFE/DPFE SENSOR PRESSURE INPUT HOSE(S)

l Remove each pressure input hose from PFE/DPFE sensor.

l Inspect each hose and PFE/DPFE sensor inlet(s) for blockage.

l Is blockage present?

Yes
SERVICE as necessary. RERUN �«Quick Test�».

No
RECONNECT pressure input hose(s). GO to �«DL10�».

DL10 MEASURE VREF CIRCUIT VOLTAGE AT PFE/DPFE SENSOR

l Key off.

l Disconnect PFE/DPFE sensor.

l Key on, engine off.

l Measure voltage between VREF circuit and SIG RTN circuit at PFE/DPFE sensor vehicle harness connector.

l Is voltage between 4.0 and 6.0 volts?

Yes
REPLACE PFE/DPFE sensor. RERUN �«Quick Test�».

No
RECONNECT PFE/DPFE sensor. GO to Pinpoint Test Step �«C1�».

---

In a nutshell:

The 335 code is most likely the DPFE sensor.

The 172 code is most likely an O2 sensor.

The 522 code may have been due to the A/C being switched on during KOER test or if an auto not being in Park or if a manual, having the clutch pedal pushed in.

FWIW, you learned the hard way that EGR valves seldom go bad.

Stalling at idle is usually a vacuum leak or an IAC issue.

Good luck and stay away from that shop.

Steve

I'm sorry.. your replacement EGR had a hose you assumed needed to be replaced anyway, so you pulled it off and there was COOLANT in it?


You do realize EGR is an EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION valve.

Coolant???


Ray

I say change the DPFE.
Don't worry about the code for the O2 sensor as the DPFE probably was the cause for it.