Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Forced Induction Wet Kit

Im getting ready to install a wet kit with a 50 shot. I already got the copper colder plugs and was wandering if I would have to take out my custom burned diablo chip or if it would be ok. I assume that the chip advanced the timing.

If the chip advanced the timing then yes pull it out to be safe.

Pull it out unless you want to to hear a loud 'BOOM'.

You'll be just fine on the stock EEC with a 50 shot.

Originally posted by 96mercury:

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If the chip advanced the timing then yes pull it out to be safe.

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Thanks a lot...good thing I asked!

You do realize that the Duratec's UIM wasn't made to have air AND fuel run through it. The fuel is going to hit those walls and turn to large drops. After that, your engine will run QUITE lean and, well, you know the rest...

With a 100+ shot I'd agree, but IMO, anything under that he is fine. :-)

Originally posted by Chris Hightower:

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You do realize that the Duratec's UIM wasn't made to have air AND fuel run through it. The fuel is going to hit those walls and turn to large drops. After that, your engine will run QUITE lean and, well, you know the rest...

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so would a dry kit be better?

all depends on what you want really.

Read this article. It is a few years old, but it will or at least should explain what happens. Its about a SHO, but we have the same basic intake design with our intake being 'less' aggressive than the SHOs.

A wet kit is more prone with back firing through the intake as well. However, if you start off small and work you way up to the level you want, you should be fine with a wet kit. Just make sure you educate yourself about the N2O and be safe when using.

Ugg ... doesn't anybody read?

Wet Kit = GENERIC terme given to a nitrous kit that involves spraying both gasoline and nitrous oxide from the same nozzle. This involves running a fuel solenoid in addition to the nitrous solenoid.

Dry Kit = GENERIC term given to a nitrous kit that injects nitrous oxide ONLY from the nozzle and relies on other means to provide more fuel. Technically, the Venom kits are dry kits since they don't run a fuel solenoid. <--- Period ... End of story

Direct Port = SPECIFIC term given to the way a kit is routed. More specifically, the term defines where the nozzle is placed in relation to the intake tract.


Traditionally, a Direct Port system IS a wet system and is plumbed AFTER the throttle body and places the nozzles as close to the intake valve as possible. This ensures much more accurate nitrous/fuel distribution. It also removes any chance of puddling in the manifold. All these backfire videos that we keep seeing people post is because someone didn't do their homework. Nitrous is as safe as YOU make it.

However, there is no reason why a direct port system can't be a dry system as well.

So, you want a fuel proof safe system ... doesn't get any safer than this:

Direct Port wet system with stand alone fuel delivery. Buy a 5 gallon fuel cell and an inline Walbro fuel pump. This will remove all strain from the stock system. Next, run a fuel pressure switch so that when the system is active and running, if fuel drops below a predetermined flow rate, the nitrous solenoid shuts off. This is of course in addition to the RPM activation window switch and WOT activation switch.

This type of system will take a lot planning and isn't for the faint of heart, but is quite possibly the safest way to run nitrous ... it's how the pro's do it!

Read? You mean research and do some leg work? Bah, that's too hard! :-)

Originally posted by fastcougar:

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Ugg ... doesn't anybody read?

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